The majority of herbs are easy to grow organically, requiring only a modest amount of maintenance to keep them healthy and disease free. Much of the effort associated with common herbs is expended to ensure they remain confined within a reasonable space and do not spread uncontrolled like weeds. Mint, nettle, nasturtium and others will quickly dominate the garden, choking out rival plants when unattended. Containment strategies must address the method of reproduction. Herbs like nasturtium and nettle multiply rapidly through seed scattering unless the heads are removed early enough to prevent this. A single specimen of Vietnamese mint is capable of releasing multiple root runners every season. Once these runners extend past the plants designated boundaries, they will need to be extracted like difficult weeds. Mulching may help control their numbers although a better alternative is to grow these varieties in pots where their tendency to distribute root runners can be continually checked. Horseradish is another species capable of disrupting a garden. The golden rule insists that horseradish must be completely removed from the garden every second year before being replanted on a smaller scale.

Unless picked regularly, fast growing herbs like marjoram, mint, and lemon balm must be cut back and shaped to maintain fresh green growth and avoid coarseness. An occasional pruning keeps plants compact, improves their appearance, and prevents unwanted seeding. Pruning also provides an opportunity to deal with the weeds and grasses which grow naturally amidst spreading herbs. When it is too difficult to tackle these with a trowel or handfork, perennial weeds can be cut back to ground level. Shears are suitable for trimming small flowering plants like chives, and chamomile, while secateurs are the best tool for trimming thicker stems of rosemary, bay, and lavender. By removing their flower buds, several of the culinary herbs will concentrate additional oils and flavour in their stems and leaves. This applies to thyme, chicory, oregano, rosemary, and sage.

Unless pruned low at the beginning of spring, fennel and hyssop are likely to become extremely coarse in stem and leaf. When necessary, herbs can be encouraged to grow compact and bushy by progressively pinching out their central growing tips.  Other tall growing species, like marshmallow, are selectively pruned by removing leaves spreading around their base. Very tall and slender specimens may also require the additional support of a wall or trellis. From an organic perspective, clippings from healthy plants can always be put to good use by recycling them as compost. Valuable culinary herbs can be dried or blended in sauces and preserves. Lavender flowers can also be dried or included as an ingredient in home made organic soap, perfume, and hair products.  

In general, organically grown herbs are less likely to suffer pest and disease problems than other cultivated plants. Some of their resilience is attributed to the natural aromatic properties and oils which appear to discourage harmful microbes and insects. This depends upon the provision of suitable growing conditions since even the toughest varieties of herb can weaken when planted in the wrong soils, or exposed to unaccustomed climates.

With a few exceptions, herbs prefer lean, well drained soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline pH. The varieties originating from Asian, African, and Mediterranean regions tend to require a lot of sunlight while Northern European herbs often prefer indirect sun and shade. It is good practice to routinely inspect herbs, ensuring optimum garden conditions and to identify early signs of problems, should they occur. Look for signs of stunted growth, damaged or irregular growth shoots, and yellowing or off colour foliage. In most cases, minor fungal outbreaks should be treated by removing the affected foliage and improving soil drainage by the inclusion of leaf mould or similar organic materials.

Aphids will occasionally infest mint, hops, nasturtium, and arnica. These can be controlled by rinsing each plant with a mild, biodegradable soap solution and encouraging beneficial predators like ladybird and lacewing. Scale or mite infestation should be wiped away with a sponge or cloth soaked in methylated or surgical spirits. Caterpillars, snails, and slugs are often attracted to herb seedlings, particularly mustard, cress, and sage. These can be removed by hand or captured in funnel traps.
 
While mulching is not often associated with organic herb cultivation, there are several advantages which should be considered. Water is an increasingly valuable commodity which must be conserved wherever possible. According to data included in the Denniford report on organic viticulture, mulching decreases total water requirements by approximately forty percent in temperate climates, rising to nearly sixty percent for dry and semi-arid regions. Compared to vegetable and vine crops, most herbs have modest water requirements, although overall volumes and savings will be significant for intensive organic operations, particularly those spread over large areas.

Mulching is also used to control grass and weeds which can become a seasonal problem for both hobbyists and commercial organic producers. It only makes sense to use high quality mulches such as organic pea straw, compost, untreated sawdust, and finely chopped twigs, leaves, and bark. All of these materials can be mixed together however it is better to avoid the use of plastic polythene sheets since these trap water and compromise efficient air circulation around the roots.

With the exception of a few tropical and sub-tropical varieties like basil, ginger, lemongrass and coriander, most herbs prefer lean, slightly alkaline soils. Fertilisers and liquid plant foods can have a dramatic impact on delicate culinary herbs like tarragon, oregano, and marjoram. Frequent or heavy applications tend to encourage rapid flourishing of bright new growth which, according to connoisseurs, coincides with a marked decrease in aromatic potency and flavour. A better option is to use recycled organic materials such as garden compost, leaf mould, and seaweed. These can be incorporated lightly into the soil or applied more generously as surface mulch.

In addition to the tropical and sub-tropical herbs mentioned earlier, garlic, chives, mint, bay, and hops will benefit from this approach while aloe, anise, rosemary, thyme, and sage will not. With the exception of hops and mint, these herbs will slow their growth during winter. In cooler climates, the outdoor growing season for basil and coriander can be extended into autumn with the use of insulated cloches.

Pruning is required to regulate the growth and shape of fruit trees, vines, and bushes. Because many of these are expected to support heavy crops, they need to develop a strong and resilient framework. This can usually be achieved through a combination of variety selection, and effective management which utilises a range of organic cultivation techniques such as soil enhancement, biological controls, companion planting, regular pruning, and fruit thinning. Immature trees and bushes are pruned to stimulate the correct orientation and solid growth of supporting limbs and branches. Over several seasons, the foliage is pruned into a shape which will eventually provide good protection for developing fruit while maintaining a reasonable degree of physical accessibility. Along with regular fruit thinning, skilfully administered pruning stimulates new growth, and can improve the quality of seasonal fruits. Once fruit trees and bushes reach their mature size, pruning maintains a tidy appearance and facilitates garden hygiene through the periodic removal of overcrowded, dead, diseased, and damaged portions of the plant.

To achieve the best results, pruning should be undertaken at the appropriate time of year using high quality, well maintained tools. It is important to avoid nitrogen rich supplements during the preceding season, since these will encourage uneven growth flushes and compromised fruit development. For most fruit species, winter is the correct time to prune. Winter pruning stimulates replacement growth which enables the overall shape and size of the plant to be influenced. There is less likelihood of infection when plants are dormant and minimal quantities of sap progress to the extremities. When fruit trees are heavily pruned in spring or early summer, the effort that goes into new growth is wasted. A light pruning during this growth phase will stimulate fruiting. The removal of half to three quarters of each new shoot improves the circulation of air and light, encouraging the formation of fruit buds. This should not be confused with fruit thinning which is removal of a portion of the immature fruit to enhance the quality of the remaining crop. Many organic orchardists will prune their older fruit bearing trees, and then wait several weeks before tackling the young and immature plants. Pruning takes some time to master and this approach provides the opportunity to practice and reach competency on the most firmly established and resilient plants. It is an effective way of minimising crop losses, particularly for the delicate stone fruit such as nectarines, and peaches.

High quality garden tools are designed to last a lifetime. They are expensive but should never be substituted for the poorly manufactured items sold in surplus and discount department stores. Pruning shears, loppers, secateurs, saws, and knives are best purchased from specialist garden suppliers with knowledgeable staff. A well designed tool will contain sufficient ergonomic features to support correct cutting techniques while maintaining a high level of physical comfort. This is particularly important for gardeners with arthritis and other conditions contributing to a reduced manual dexterity. Stainless steel blades are an excellent choice however there are alternatives which have gained popularity in recent years. Heat treated tungsten and Teflon coatings, similar to those applied in cookware and engine components are certainly worth considering.

To be effective in their operation, pruning tools must be kept scrupulously clean, well oiled and sharp. Blunt and dirty blades will soon damage fruit plants and provide opportunities for infection and disease. To limit the possibility of cross infection between individual plants, it is strongly recommended that pruning blades be wiped down with a soap solution then dried before using them on another. At the end of the session, these tools should be carefully inspected then cleaned with a mineral spirit before oiling both the blades and associated moving parts.

While there is a wide range of pruning methods and techniques, the basic approach to cutting should remain the same. Whenever possible, secateur or knife cuts should be made above the bud with the cut angled away from it. This enables rainwater to drip down the stem, protecting the bud and top of the exposed cut from bacterial rot and fungus. The cuts need to be clean and decisive to prevent damage to plant tissue. Larger branches need to be removed with loppers or a pruning saw. When the selected branch is heavy, it is safer and more effective to remove this in separate stages.

Beginning from the lower surface of the branch, the first cut should be angled upwards and approximately forty five degrees outwards from the trunk. Aim this preliminary cut at least three hundred millimetres outward from the branch collar or final cut, as anticipated. This assists the branch to fall easily with minimal splitting once a second cut is driven directly down from above. The second cut should begin at the top of the branch just above the undercut. Follow through until the weight of the branch causes it to separate from the tree. Having removed the additional weight, a final cut can be made at the branch collar or further out if required, cutting straight from the top to the bottom of the branch. This practice increases the number of actions required but greatly reduces the risk of forked branches splitting down into the trunk and causing extensive damage to the bark and sensitive internal vessels of the tree.

Like most essential practices in organic horticulture, the technical and aesthetic elements of pruning are widely debated in both professional and amateur circles. Most comprehensive garden publications will contain the foundation elements of a recognised pruning approach. These elements can be directly applied to achieve a satisfactory result. They can also be adapted or expanded with some of the supplementary techniques and approaches gained through wider reading, observation, and practical experience. Once the basic principles of cutting are mastered, they can be employed with any of the popular guidelines which demonstrate pruning in a sequence of instructional steps.

The following sequence is provided as a guideline for pruning mature fruit trees. Beginning with an inspection around the base, remove any root suckers to prevent their enlargement and competition for the water and nutrients required for upper growth. Check the base of each trunk for any discoloration or mottling which may indicate treatable problems like root parasite or fungal growth. Moving upwards, check each trunk for stability then select any limbs which need removing. It is good practice to begin by clearing any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs. This is important for safety reasons and assists with the planning and execution of later cuts.

After tackling the dead wood, remove any low, drooping limbs. In most instances these will be heavily shaded by higher growth and unable to provide fruit. These limbs drain resources which are better utilised for central growth and seasonal fruit production. Similarly, rapid upright growth in trees and outward growth in the case of wall trained bushes should be restricted. Vertical flourishing of high foliage does not support valuable fruit production in trees and outward growth of wall trained bushes is likely to cast productive sectors in shadow, with the potential to impact adversely upon fruit ripening.

The next step involves removal of crossing and dense parallel growth. Excessive parallel growth restricts the availability of sunlight for developing fruit. Crossing growth generates friction which can damage bark and create access for parasites and disease. Once all damaged and unproductive growth has been removed, trees and bushes can be shaped to accommodate future growth and optimum fruit production. Many organic fruit growers shape citrus and stone fruit into the traditional conical pattern with upper limbs cut back further than lower limbs. This enables maximum quantities of sunlight to reach developing fruit. Once the larger branches are trimmed in this manner, smaller ones should be selectively thinned to remove redundant foliage and encourage new growth.

Many volumes have been written about the subject of garden pruning. It might be defined as an essentially creative form with practical applications, one that utilises a series of technical skills. There are many ways to approach a pruning task, the differing philosophies and techniques often become the source of heated debate amongst gardening enthusiasts. While I don’t recommend getting too hot and bothered about the topic, I do suggest you gain a basic understanding of pruning and pinching techniques.

Pinching

Pinching is the removal of unwanted growth by the fingers, usually when such growth is tender enough to readily succumb. Recall the expression “nipping something in the bud”. It provides a verbal illustration for the action and intended outcome with respect to pinching. The bud or tender section of growth gets removed by a pinching or nipping action. This is designed to alleviate future problems that might potentially arise; excessive flowering or branching imposes a penalty against the health and vitality of immature plants. A portion of additional growth is thereby sacrificed for the longer term welfare or health of the whole (plant).

Pinching is also the technique that can be used to shape or encourage an immature shrub into a favourable design. This may be pursued with respect to an ideal standard for the species as well as the overall mood and theme of a particular garden setting. Selective pinching will stimulate the development of side shoots and assist to create the dense, compact growth preferred in many ornamental shrub varieties. When executed properly, pinching leaves a negligible scar and will not harm the plant.

Pruning

Pruning refers to the removal of a portion of a plant by means of some cutting instrument such as secateurs, loppers, or saw. There are several reasons for pruning. It is seen by many gardeners as a convenient means for introducing order to the garden. Creating a series of pleasing shapes and the space that will enable each plant to grow according to its requirements. Pruning can be carried out to limit the growth of vigorous plants that may outcompete or damage others nearby. Pruning is often used as a means to control the quality and amount of foliage, flowering and fruit each season.

Fruit trees such as apples, peaches, and cherries are routinely pruned to maintain vigour and maximise the yield of fruit. Roses, lavender and many other ornamental shrubs require regular pruning to ensure vibrant and prolific flowering each year. Another reason for pruning is to remove any growth that is potentially dangerous. This can include sections or branches that are physically damaged, dead, decaying, diseased or showing evidence of pest infestation. Pruning effectively clears away rubbish as in the expression “getting rid of dead wood”. The artistic approach to pruning a tree or a hedge involves creating harmonious balance with surroundings, enabling the finished specimen to appeal to the eye with its new shape and overall sense of proportion. This approach requires skill, experience and often proves, in practice, more difficult than it sounds.

The best course is to follow the three P’s: planning, perspective and patience. Particularly for beginners, it is worthwhile spending some effort in the planning of the task. Begin by soliciting advice or expert opinion, remembering this will vary widely depending on who or where you consult. With digital technology it is convenient to take several images that can then be viewed by gardening contacts from nurseries, organic garden centres, or the local organic growers association. Once there is some suggestion of the overall shape or design required, a quick sketch or two will consolidate this and also provide a reference point when cutting. This helps with perspective, which is the ability to stand back and view stages of progress from a distance. While sawing or cutting in close contact, it is rarely possible to accurately evaluate the overall effect. Like the sculptor working in marble, the risk is always that of removing too much. When it’s gone, it cannot be easily replaced so there’s a need to regularly step back and look.

A carefully pruned tree or hedge will look different (hopefully better) several weeks after the cutting. Individual species have varying styles and rates of return growth. Be patient during the recovery period and try to avoid indulging in trimming or any other adjustments. The plant needs time to recuperate and it will be advantageous for future attempts to learn how the pruned growth rebuilds itself. Fiddling around the edges will restrict the knowledge that comes from experience and a patient approach to the task.

In practice, the sequence of cutting is ruled by constraints beyond aesthetics or mere appearances. To protect the plant and garden alike, priority should be afforded to the removal of all dead, dying, diseased, displaced or deformed branches. Following this, an attempt should be made to eradicate sections of poorly controlled or crowded growth including branches that intersect or entwine against the general pattern or shape of the plant.

The best pruning results are inevitably obtained from a combination of sound technique and sharp, well maintained tools. When using secateurs, the thin blade should be positioned toward the trunk or major branch side of the cut. This provides the cleanest cut and prevents the layers of damaged tissue that can otherwise occur beneath the line of cutting. When removing entire branches, look for the collar, a bulging spot where the branch first emerges from the trunk. Most branches can be safely pruned back to the collar. This practice of preserving the collar will leave a smaller wound with more intact bark to assist healing. Sensitive species can have any wounds protected with a special sealant that is available from organic suppliers and tree surgeons. When removing finer shoots, cuts should be made cleanly and directly above a bud, say five millimetres. This promotes rapid healing and protects future growth.

Fruit trees and flowering ornamentals should generally be pruned in winter when bare. When there is a very large pruning job, particularly those involving contractors or commercially sensitive stock, it may be feasible and expedient to obtain a preliminary report from a tree surgeon or specialist. During the task, it is always good practice to wipe pruning blades with methylated spirits to disinfect them before moving between plants. This prevents the opportunistic transmission of any plant disease.