Even the most conservative estimates suggest that approximately thirty percent of marketable vegetable produce is lost each year due to poor handling and storage in the period following harvest. On a global scale this represents a significant quantity of food, enough to support very large populations such as China or India’s. In line with a general emphasis on sustainability, organic vegetable production should be dedicated to minimizing waste and inefficiencies associated with inadequate storage procedures.

Anyone who’s old enough might recall extreme shortages of fresh fruit and vegetables in Britain during the Second World War. Some popular historians attribute this to the breakdown of agriculture caused by labor and equipment shortages. I’ve recently conducted my own research and located material which challenges this viewpoint. During the early years of the war, agricultural production increased marginally in several important sectors. One of these was vegetables. Why then were so many children from London, Manchester, and Glasgow chronically malnourished and scurvy afflicted? It appears one of the most significant factors was a systemic failure to maintain effective distribution and storage for the produce grown in the majority of rural districts.

Local archives of farm records and correspondence frequently reveal the levels of difficulty and frustration experienced by commercial growers. In a letter to his uncle, Douglas Woodbridge of Surrey recorded the loss of his spinach and turnip crops. Several hectares of mature plants were ploughed into the fields while the remainder was sold locally as livestock fodder. He comments on the lack of incentives and support given to farmers in his district, particularly those experiencing difficulties holding or consigning their produce.

In more recent times, improved understanding of the physiology of fruit and vegetables has resulted in a range of storage and distribution procedures which can be applied to reduce the risk of substantial post harvest losses. Food technologists commonly refer to harvested fruit and vegetables as living structures. When described in this manner, we’re reminded that most produce continues metabolizing following detachment from parent stock.

Fresh vegetables absorb atmospheric oxygen and release carbon dioxide, water, and heat. Within individual cells the metabolic breakdown of stores containing starch, sugars and organic acids results in molecules of carbon dioxide and water. Once detached from parent stock, these progressive water losses cannot be replaced by the distribution of sap through interior vessels. In combination with the prevention of microbial and insect challenges, contemporary post harvest technologies usually aim to reduce the metabolic rate of stored produce. Several of these involve chemical substances or procedures incompatible with the environmental and health precautions of organic certification standards.

There are a variety of economical ways to store organic vegetables but the best approach will depend upon each particular variety and the season. The majority of root crops can be stored satisfactorily in cool locations which are well protected from sunlight. When grown in small quantities, root vegetables such as parsnip and turnip can be left in the ground until required. One traditional storage method which remains popular in some developing regions is the ventilated pit. Hard vegetables including potatoes, turnip, and yam are carefully piled inside pits carved beneath the elevated facades of terrace slopes, hillsides and other suitably drained locations. The interior is usually insulated with layers of straw then covered with dry sand or earth to protect the vegetables from frost and extreme weather conditions. Underground cellars were once widely popular as a practical means for securing below ground storage. The better examples provided ventilation openings which enabled the circulation and removal of excessive humidity.

Careful handling then storage will enhance the longevity and nutritional value of organic vegetables. Bacterial mould is more likely to develop on bruised and damaged vegetables, and can rapidly spread to affect others. For this reason, it’s important to inspect stored crops regularly and remove any that have started to decay. Optimum results depend upon selecting the highest quality vegetables and rejecting any which are bruised or blemished. Many of the microscopic organisms causing mould and other forms of decay are unable to penetrate intact exterior skin but will readily invade through swollen areas and cuts. The portion of skin surrounding the stem is a frequent point of entry for microorganisms. As a general rule the rate post harvest decay is decreased by low storage temperatures and humidity. The highly controlled environments designed for commercial storage may also restrict circulating oxygen and prevent natural ripening with chemical treatments.

Following a successful harvest, I make efforts to store my vegetable groups separately and always avoid storing any type of fruit with vegetables. A non-functioning refrigerator or chest freezer can make a useful storage vessel for garden fresh vegetables. They offer protection from light and the insulation helps to maintain relatively constant temperatures within. Adequate ventilation can be ensured by drilling small holes in the door or lid sealings. They are inaccessible to rodents so can be safely housed outdoors in dry sheds and other suitable buildings. Larger vegetables like pumpkin, marrow, corn, and potatoes can also be stored in clearly labeled wooden or plastic boxes. The red skinned and other pigmented potatoes are particularly long lasting and may be stored for up to one year. Well-ventilated containers will accommodate several layers when required. Since it is important to minimize contact during storage, each new layer should be separated from those below with sheets of corrugated cardboard or similar. Onions and garlic will also last a considerable time but need to be properly aired in string bags or hessian sacks.

Depending on their variety and physical condition, many organic vegetables will benefit from refrigerated or frozen storage. According to food experts there are few nutritional disadvantages associated with snap frozen vegetables or those correctly accommodated in refrigerated stores. Because vegetable varieties respond differently according to their physiology, it can sometimes be challenging to select refrigeration temperatures suitable for a range of seasonal and imported produce. Provided there’s no risk of cold injury, maximum storage life is usually obtained by approaching but not exceeding the freezing point of tissue. In vegetables not susceptible to cold injury, maximum storage life can be obtained by storage close to the freezing point of the tissue. By maintaining an even temperature around four degrees celcius the durability of leafy greens, peas, corn, and asparagus can be extended over several days despite fluctuations or extremes of local temperature. Given they’re in perfect condition, a wide range of organic vegetables can also be frozen for several months without losing their nutritional quality or flavors. To prevent scarring and discoloration, crisp fleshy vegetables like beans, cauliflower, and broccoli should be blanched in boiling water for sixty seconds before freezing.

Within a short period of time refrigerated cold storage may interfere with the overall quality and flavor of root and tuberous vegetables. Refrigeration tends to encourage the conversion of starches to sugar, resulting in vegetables with poor texture and less robust flavors. When stored at temperatures above fifteen degrees celcius, many potato varieties will exit their dormant stage and commence sprouting. This can usually be delayed by storage systems which avoid unnecessary light, humidity, and close proximity with other produce. Dependent on their codes of practice, some commercial distributors may apply chemicals or radiation to suppress sprouting in their potato consignments. Maleic hydrazide (MH), isopropyl-phenylcarbamate (IPPC), and methyl naphthaleneacetic (MENA), are all commercial sprout inhibitors. All of these chemicals are potentially harmful and remain subject to legal restrictions or total bans imposed by organic certifiers.

Just two blocks down from my daughter’s house there’s a small grocery store stocking an exclusive range of organically certified sweet relish, pickles, and salsas. I always purchase a few jars of their spicy vegetable pickle. It’s terrific for firing up a ploughman’s lunch. Before refrigeration, food preservation techniques were an essential component of household management. Given sufficient time, spare vegetables can still be transformed into a wide range of traditional and exotic accompaniments. Zucchinis, onion, carrot, beetroot, and many others can be gently simmered with vinegar, sugar and combinations of spices, apple, tomato, and raisins. When properly sealed in preserving jars, home made relish and chutneys store on the shelf for up to twelve months. From my experience, food preservation tends to encourage resourcefulness and reduces the potential for waste. Produce falling below a premium standard can also be processed into juices or purees then frozen for up to one month before being used in soups and other recipes.

Towards the end of last summer, I harvested a bumper crop of organically grown peas. They were extraordinary in taste and quality. For several weeks I gathered them before dawn then packed them inside raw calico bags which stacked neatly inside the crisper section of my old twin door refrigerator. I offered them to relatives, friends, and neighbors.  Apparently there was no shortage of families who appreciated receiving small packages of freshly harvested garden peas. After my initial distributions I received a polite telephone request from a local restaurant. One of their patrons mentioned my crop of peas and the chef was hoping to obtain some for his special minestrone. No problem, I agreed.

The following day’s sunrise caught me unprepared. I was filling the bags and steadily loading my wheelbarrow when the eastern horizon expanded with the most brilliant glow of warm orange light. I walk to the edge of my garden, surveying and appreciating all that nature provides. Dogs are barking somewhere in the distance but my thoughts swirl with the songs and memories of my childhood, this perfect moment.

Harvesting is potentially the most enjoyable and rewarding of the activities associated with organic vegetable gardening. By fulfilling the need to provide ongoing food and sustenance, the harvest was originally experienced as a time of celebration and healing. Amongst traditional societies, there are numerous examples of harvest rites and celebrations which are usually associated with the religious and spiritual practices of their people. In Western Europe and North America, for example, the concept of Halloween extended from the combination of agricultural and religious ceremonies. These were established to accompany the annual harvest of grain and vegetables, before onset of the northern winter. Native tribes of Canada and North America frequently included dimensions of renewal and healing to their traditions of harvest celebration. Contemporary scientists have also reported the positive effects of gardening, including increased levels of serotonin and endorphin generated around the time of harvest. These are natural chemicals released in the brain to promote relaxation and a deep sense of well-being.

The optimum time for harvesting vegetable produce varies according to the influence of soil condition, seasonal factors, and personal taste for the flavor and texture characteristics of individual varieties. In many instances, the timing will be influenced by the metabolic rate and storage characteristics of individual vegetable types. Immature seeds and legumes like sweetcorn, fresh peas, and beans contain high water content and an elevated metabolic activity. These vegetables are generally harvested before their sugars are converted to additional starch. Vegetable varieties consisting of edible flowers, buds, and leaves can also have high metabolic activity and may be susceptible to mould and bacterial damage when their harvest is delayed. Most of the root, tuber and bulb vegetables have slower metabolic rates and are less likely to require early harvesting. Beetroot, carrots, onion, potatoes, parsnip, swedes, and turnip are classified as non perishable, and can be stored for prolonged periods if required.

Inexperienced growers tend to focus on the harvesting schedules published in popular gardening books and magazines.  The majority of winter vegetables should be picked towards the latter stages of their growing season. This is certainly true however each crop is unique and experienced gardeners must eventually develop strategies for consistently determining this point. I usually depend upon the physical properties of my produce. I’m more than satisfied with vegetables exhibiting a pleasing combination of color, firmness, and size. I also know that some gardeners employ scientific measures. I’ve listened to experts who use special instruments to evaluate the electrical and light transmittance characteristics of their vegetables. There are standardized tables which determine levels of maturity and ripeness according to these measurements. Less accurate comparisons are sometimes based on the chemical composition or respiratory behavior of vegetable samples.

Summer vegetables are frequently harvested before the onset of physical maturity. Commercial crops of sweetcorn, beans, and peppers are influenced by contemporary food styles as many distinguished chefs and providores demand the sweet taste and crisp texture of immature vegetables. Home growers and hobbyists can choose to ignore current fashion, although many prefer harvesting early to commence new crops or to encourage additional vegetables on plants which produce throughout the season. There is also an argument that early harvesting discourages the onset of troublesome plant diseases like sclerotinia, canker, and wilt.

The majority of commercial growers prefer harvesting their vegetable crops with high water content. This ensures optimum weight and appearance, particularly for the leafy greens which respond most rapidly to changes in their external environment. In some instances, maximum water content is encouraged through the use of chemical solutions, generally resulting in a bland or neutral taste. Skilled organic growers usually attempt to manipulate their watering to achieve maximum flavor in combination with high water content at the time of harvest. By carefully restricting watering throughout the early and middle stages of growth, vegetables are encouraged to increase the flavor characteristics determined by local influences such as climate, soil, and planting arrangements. When watering is increased during the final weeks of growth, most vegetables hold the additional fluid within their cells at the time of harvesting.

Efficient harvesting depends upon an ability to reject poor quality produce in coordination with handling and storage techniques which maintain an optimum standard of quality. In the first instance, harvested vegetables must be healthy and fully intact. This implies the absence of any symptoms relating to disease, pest infestation, or the physical signs of damage including bruising, cuts, and swelling. There are several reasons why damaged vegetables should always be discarded. Mechanical damage can easily distort the protective function of outer tissue layers, resulting in accelerated rates of gaseous exchange and water loss. Surface defects can also permit access to bacterial decay and disease causing microorganisms. Once detached from their parent plants, the capacity for wound healing and recovery is greatly diminished or negligible for most vegetable varieties.   

Some varieties of vegetable are particularly susceptible to water loss during the timespan between harvesting and secure storage. Water loss can occur through the combination of accelerated metabolic activity with a hot and dry atmosphere. Under such conditions, it is possible to lose approximately ten percent of the harvested weight for a perishable crop within several hours. This generally results in severe wilting and decreases the overall crispness and palatability of the produce. In the absence of protective measures, the rate of water loss depends primarily upon the ratio of surface area to volume. Leafy vegetables like spinach, for example, have large evaporative surfaces which suffer greater losses per unit weight than root vegetables like parsnip or swede.

Most commercial producers make considerable efforts to protect their vegetable harvest from water loss and several of their techniques may also apply to small scale organic growers. To ensure milder conditions, many crops can be harvested at night or early in the morning. The rate of water loss can also be reduced by providing physical barriers which limit the free circulation of warm air. These employ a variety of readily available materials including polythene films, fiber cartons, and sawdust. With current improvements in handling and storage techniques, it is now considered beneficial to quickly reduce the temperature of vulnerable vegetables at the time of their harvest. This can be facilitated with mobile chillers and air conditioned storage bins. Sometimes described as precooling, the technique is widely employed for highly perishable varieties of lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, and asparagus. Precooling restricts the rate of water loss, prevents undesirable changes in color, and protects important nutrients like vitamins C, A, and folic acid.

I have a dear old friend, Thomas, who raises organic vegetables in timber barrels. Several decades ago, well-used barrels were frequently discarded from the larger vineyards and distilleries or sold to gardening enthusiasts for a modest sum. Nowadays, the use of wooden barrels is greatly diminished as inexpensive alcoholic beverages are increasingly stored in stainless steel kegs. Consequently, the few wooden barrels currently available have become sought after items. They’re typically sold by outdoor design centers and antique dealers for upmarket prices. My friend recalls two men offering several thousand dollars for his collection of barrels. It was Easter Sunday and they were offering cash, he explains. They had their truck with them and they seemed pretty confident about purchasing his barrels. What’ll you do with them? inquired Thomas. Saw them in half, varnish them, and mount them on decorative stands. Sell them on the internet. On the internet? Thomas repeated. Yeah, they confirmed, decorative containers are popular on ebay.

The main challenge for the gardener interested in container grown vegetables is to select suitable varieties and to accommodate their individual requirements for space, water, sunlight, and nutrients. Container raised vegetables are susceptible to crowding, more so than those planted in open ground. Deep and spacious containers like those wooden barrels are ideal for growing small quantities of organic vegetables, particularly the green leafy varieties and compact growers like cherry tomatoes, and snow peas. Leafy vegetables like spinach or silverbeet grow surprisingly quick and even regenerate themselves after picking. Potatoes can be grown in troughs or drums which are simply emptied at harvest. There are miniature varieties of carrot and other root vegetables which have been refined for container growing. Containers are inappropriate for several classes of vegetable. Heavy feeding plants like corn are better served in open ground and the larger spreading vines like pumpkin, marrow, and aubergine will struggle to reach their potential when planted in containers.

When grown in open ground, vegetables can extend their roots over distances to obtain sufficient water in dry conditions. Because of their restricted root systems, container-grown plants require more frequent watering. At the peak of a dry summer, this may increase to several times each day. Automatic sprinkling systems can be programmed to deliver measured volumes of water at intervals throughout the day and evening. These units are extremely valuable in gardens supporting a large number of containers. The down side associated with frequent watering is the potential for drainage problems combined with a continual washing away of water-soluble nutrients. Providing regular replacement in the form of a liquid plant food can usually offset the loss of nutrients. The best organic products include seaweed extracts, liquid manures, and milder solutions brewed from nettle or comfrey leaves. While expensive, commercial organic supplements improve the overall quality and yield of container-raised produce. These should be carefully diluted according to each manufacturers recommendation. Excessive concentrations cannot be absorbed and will eventually damage root structure and function.

In the absence of good drainage, planting containers may eventually become waterlogged, damaging vegetables by restricting the uptake of oxygen from their roots. Drainage is determined by the availability of porous channels which absorb then direct water towards the base. Upon reaching the base, excess water is encouraged to drain externally from the container. Good drainage can be assisted by using quality organic potting mixtures, above a base layer of scoria or ceramic and by ensuring that pots and tubs have several drainage holes that are at least two centimeters in diameter. Most garden soils tend to compact with frequent watering so are not recommended for container planting. The best potting mixes contain fibrous organic materials that hold an even dispersion of moisture and air pockets plus nutrients to support plant growth. The mixture must also be sufficiently dense to support the vertical growth and weight of plants. For growing vegetables, my friend Thomas uses an organic potting mix combined with sandy loam in approximately equal quantities. He completely replaces this growing medium after each crop of root vegetables. For his tomatoes and leafy greens, he generally replaces this after harvesting a second or third crop.

The metabolic rate of all green plants is determined by the availability of light and heat. There is quite a bit of variation in the optimum sunlight requirement for the different types of vegetable which are commonly raised. Spinach, for example grows happily in restricted sun or partial shade whereas most tomatoes require direct sunlight for at least four or five hours on average per day. Most container-grown vegetables require good ventilation and at least several hours of sunshine each day. Their location must be carefully chosen to avoid difficult and extreme weather conditions. Enclosed patios are usually suitable but open and elevated apartment balconies are often subject to extremes of heat, cold, wind, and rain. While the Mediterranean or European tradition for growing vegetables and herbs on raised balconies is a cultural tradition, there is a potential safety hazard when heavy planting vessels are positioned on elevated surfaces. Call me anxious, but I cannot avoid checking upwards on visits to Spain and southern Italy. My friends laugh because I still grab every opportunity to browse around the fashionable terraces of Messina and Palermo.

Now those ebay entrepreneurs were pretty keen to purchase old Thomas’s barrel collection. They added an extra hundred to the original offer. Thomas admits being tempted. The barrels were pretty old, he says. He thought about raising vegetables in deep acrylic pots. In the end, I couldn’t, he reveals. You’d become attached to the natural timber? I ask. Yeah, I suppose so. Those barrels are the functional elements of my garden and they were planning to cut them longitudinally. Shallow trays for temporary flower displays? He scratches his head with disbelief. Their shape is kind of important to me, he asserts. I admire rounded things with pleasant curves. Like those old Buick passenger vehicles of the nineteen fifties. You don’t interfere with a brilliant design.   

Developing then pursuing a well considered plan is the best approach for achieving a satisfactory outcome. Expectation needs matching against ability and opportunity, even for low key activities such as organic vegetable gardening. The first stage of planning considers each expectation commencing with the broadest brush. What can be achieved? The most restrictive expectations are based on measurement. A certain volume, or weight each week, then a combined target for the end of the season. Commercial organic growers must operate within such narrow economies but can be challenged by uncooperative weather cycles and unpredictable events. Recreational gardeners can set a more flexible course, one that aims to include both functional and pleasurable aspects of their garden.

Increased choice

It is surprising, how many gardeners will grow too many vegetables, even those they don’t particularly enjoy eating. Thankfully, we are no longer restricted to traditional options like cauliflower, turnips, and cabbage. There is a much wider range to choose from, including stir fry greens, radishes, and peppers originating from Asia, South American and Pacific sweet potatoes, plump Mediterranean aubergines, and okra from the Indian subcontinent. To keep things interesting, it is a great idea to supplement a small selection of well known vegetables with at least one exotic species each season.

To realise their optimal nutritional benefits, fresh vegetables should be consumed within a few days of harvesting. Careful planning helps maintain a continuous and steady supply for the kitchen table. Will there be heavier demands through holiday periods, festivals, or religious celebrations? A calendar record of the best (local) seasonal produce will help to establish correct sowing dates. Always work backwards from the date that mature crops are needed.

Nutrient focus when space is limited

When garden space is restricted, it makes sense to concentrate on a small selection of plants that can provide a balanced range of vitamins and other essential nutrients. Leafy green vegetables like spinach, silverbeet, and beetrot tips are the best providers of vitamins A, C, and minerals like iron, calcium, and selenium. Brussel sprouts, broccoli and kale are excellent additional sources of vitamin C. For the B group vitamins a combination of potatoes, beans, pumpkin, peas, and sprouts is appropriate. This group needs to be further supplemented with a varied diet containing nuts, mushrooms, brewers yeast, pulses and whole grains. Modest amounts of vitamin E is found in most leafy greens but the main sources of this important nutrient are the cold pressed vegetable oils, avocadoes, apricots, and wheatgerm.

Random planting may be advantageous

Vegetable gardens can follow the traditional pattern with a designated plot and plants arranged neatly in rows. This requires some extra preparation and maintenance but enables early growth to be carefully monitored. Weaker plants can be periodically removed to reduce the competition for light, moisture, and soil nutrients. Alternatively, vegetables can be grown randomly throughout the entire garden. This is a more natural situation and tends to favour vigorous stock and excellent produce. Weak or substandard vegetables will eventually be overwhelmed by the healthier plants surrounding them. A random planting offers better protection against insect pests, mainly because the attractive signals are weakened and the increased distances between each plant deter colonisation.

At the planning stage, vegetable gardeners need to consider the separate conditions required for annual as opposed to perennial plants. Annual vegetable crops, such as carrots, broccoli, and potatoes, need to be rotated to a different growing space each season. This procedure helps to prevent soil disease, pest infestation, and enables soil replenishment during a fallow period that is scheduled between each sequence of crop rotation. Perennial vegetable crops like asparagus continue producing for a second and third season. They tend to be low maintenance plants with new shoots growing quickly to replace any stalks that are removed. When appearances are important, it may be worth checking the eventual height and spread of new seedling purchases. Very tall plants may look out of place among rows of shorter ones; they may also require some staking support as they mature. Fast growing vines like cucumber, choko, and squash appear unruly when they’re allowed to spread over pathways and walls.

Involve others

The planning and preparation for an organic vegetable garden can be challenging and enjoyable when undertaken together by a family group or friends. The task may even require some creative scheduling and a diplomatic chairperson or moderator. Participants provided with opportunities to express their needs and preferences from the beginning, are more likely to remain enthusiastically involved in the day to day running of the garden. It is also important to include everyone’s favourite dinner vegetable. Children who find cooked vegetables unpalatable can be encouraged to try garden produce in simple salads. These should focus on a selection of tasty ingredients that readily combine in patterns of bright, inspiring colour. Sweet baby carrots, lightly steamed corn, fresh peas, and grated beetroot rank among the best choices

When I commenced my apprenticeship, there was a strict emphasis on vegetables, fruit, and ornamental trees. Despite my early enthusiasm for flowers, shrubs, and lawns, I was advised to concentrate on the vegetables.

I still recall the words of the Head Gardener at the time. “Learn to grow a decent vegetable and you’ll have earned the respect of your trade”. Very outdated I suppose, but wait, there’s more. On the third Saturday of each month a formal dinner was held. We were given the weekend’s leave but the Friday beforehand was dedicated to finishing touches on the grounds in addition to a selective harvesting of seasonal produce. We literally filled the kitchens with an assortment of our best vegetables. They were carefully laid on rough oak tables. Onions, carrots, parsnips, and string beans so crisp they virtually exploded when you snapped them apart. Butter squashes with their delicate white flowers attached, new potatoes, celery, aubergines, and spinach. Deep golden pumpkins and cream tinted cauliflowers. Like a still life painter, I was entranced by their shapes and colour contrasted against those ancient oak tables.

Over subsequent years, I managed to gain some insight on organic principles and many of the practical applications associated with vegetable gardening. While there are several important rules which should be observed, it is my belief that too much technical information can quickly confuse and restrict the novice gardener.

I often introduce my gardening discussions with first hand accounts emphasising the intrinsically human qualities of this activity. There is little doubt, for example, that an ability to supply foods from the garden can generate a complex sense of achievement and security for many individuals. My parents maintained a productive garden which provided our family with plenty of fresh vegetables during and immediately after the Second World War. These were challenging times in Britain, and families like my own were often dependent upon home grown vegetables.

Today, self sufficiency remains an attractive concept, one that is frequently associated with organically grown produce. The degree of planning and effort required to produce the variety and quantity of fresh vegetables to support a large family is considerable and would probably discourage many enthusiastic beginners. A more realistic expectation might be the reduction of weekly grocery expenses in addition to regular supplementations of fresher and superior quality vegetables compared with those available from local supermarkets. Whatever the quantitative outcome, there is always a quiet sense of fulfilment when home grown food is delivered to the table. Maintaining this positive outlook helps to overcome minor setbacks and ensures that growing vegetables becomes an enjoyable rather than laborious effort.

According to medical and lifestyle surveys, there is now a widespread tendency for modern families to miss out on the nutrients required to sustain their long term health and wellbeing. There are numerous reasons why growing vegetables organically, at home, makes good sense. Consider the superior nutritional content of organic produce. Combined with the fact these foods are pure and wholesome, with no genetic tampering or chemical residues, home grown organic vegetables are the ultimate prescription for good health, vitality and longevity.

As a bonus, these nutritional factors are coupled with convenience. Once the organic vegetable garden is established, it’s possible to maintain a continuous supply of seasonal produce. When your basic ingredients are readily available, it’s much easier to prepare a range of nutritious and time efficient meals. Garden fresh salads in spring and summer then rich vegetable soups, pasta, or casseroles in autumn and winter.

Gardeners can also receive additional health benefits from the gentle physical exercise required to look after their plants. The amount of exercise depends upon the size of the garden, soil structure, and the types of vegetable being raised. Careful planning is of course essential to reduce unnecessary work for individuals with strict limits on the amount of time available for gardening activities.

It’s a fast paced world now and many individuals are restricted by their daily schedules. I’ve met plenty of people who commence their days at six in the morning then work steadily until ten in the evening. While establishing a large organic garden might be unrealistic under these circumstances, there is every reason to attempt a modest vegetable plot. During tenure with my local organic gardener’s society, I received correspondences from several individuals who described their personal satisfaction and sense of accomplishment as gained from their gardening activities. In reviewing these, I remain convinced that personal benefits are rarely specified by the number of hours allocated to a garden, or the volume of produce generated. Here’s Mr J’s experience. (I obtained his permission to reproduce the following) 

I’ve never considered myself the gardening type. Until recently, my life was devoted to a career which provided adequate social and financial incentives. I use the term adequate to emphasise concerns that my life somehow lacked a sense of balance. As a younger person, I pursued a competitive interest in rugby and maintained various recreational pursuits with close friends and family members. At a certain stage, the mental and physical demands imposed by my career forced me to focus inwards. By the time I reached forty, my schedule involved extended office hours and regular meetings abroad. I spent less time at home and began to lose intimacy with my family. I was constantly committed and never available. The pattern continued for nearly twenty years, before an unexpected event provided me the opportunity to re-evaluate my goals. My firm’s corporate sponsor was accused of tax evasion and other acts of financial impropriety. During an enforced absence from work, I became increasingly frustrated and anxious when my name was linked to false and damaging allegations.

My correspondent describes his disillusionment with the corporate environment before introducing the topic of gardening.

I waited near the far end of my section holding the spade while it rained steadily from heavy grey skies. A chorus of internal doubts encouraged me indoors. I nearly succumbed to the repetitive comforts of my newspapers and telephone. The rain eased slightly so I commenced digging the earth with the spade. The freshly broken soil was dark like Belgian chocolate. I crumbled a small clod between my fingers and it immediately stained them.

With his hands already dirty, it wasn’t long before Mr J ventured into the realm of organics. He obtained a newsletter from his local organic society and borrowed several books on soil management and vegetable gardening.

Upon planting my initial crop of vegetables, I was overwhelmed to encounter the generous support and advice of local gardeners and society members. I attended several society meetings and found myself participating in topical discussions about the advantages of organic whole foods, fair trade policies, and the long term sustainability of organic production methods. It wasn’t long before I found myself absorbed in the concept and principles of recycling and self sufficiency.

He goes on to describe a positive resolution to his career difficulties and the subsequent decision to establish new priorities in his life.

I rationalised my current situation and decided to undertake a part time consultancy role. This enabled me to work from home to a large extent and provided more time for previously neglected leisure activities like sailing, golf, and the occasional cross country hike. My organic vegetable garden sustained me through a difficult period so I was more than pleased to allocate several hours each week toward its maintenance.

The next passage illustrates that the benefits were largely independent of his overall efficiency and volume of production.

Upon demonstrating my capacity to produce a small selection of fresh vegetables, I was tempted to increase the size of the garden. After some reflection, I decided not to. The positive outcomes were already substantial so there was no immediate incentive for me to raise the stakes, so to speak. My vegetable garden provided valuable lessons regarding the integrity of physical effort and modest achievement. Since undertaking board certification, my entire career had depended upon establishing a reputation based on overstatement and exaggeration. This was continuously reflected in a lifestyle of excessive consumption and accelerated ambition. Organic gardening provided me with sufficient space to discover alternative inspirations.

Mr J describes a renewed pleasure in simple events. He finds himself breathing fresh air, mentally focused and well prepared to appreciate the seasonal influences, and subtle rhythms of nature. This new perspective on life encourages him to rest adequately and replace his stressed out eating habits with relaxed dining and wholesome meals. He concludes his correspondence with an observation on gardening’s impact upon his personal relationships.

My wife still teases me about the organic society, although she’s quick to admit that gardening helped me become a nicer person. I rarely experience anger these days, and my friends have noticed the difference. At work, I’m more patient with clients and have improved my ability to evaluate outcomes from their perspective. I’ve become less hostile on the road and have even stopped swearing at parking attendants.

And the postscript?

My son lives abroad and rarely contacts us. Yesterday I received a call several hours before dawn. He was thinking about planting some asparagus and wondered if I could provide any helpful advice. I laughed then told him to make sure the tips were pointing towards the sky.

I cannot sufficiently emphasise that the site chosen for growing organic vegetables is extremely important. A poorly structured site will drastically limit the potential for success, irrespective of any gardening competence or technical abilities which are subsequently applied. This can probably be attributed to their highly cultivated status. Even the most basic types of vegetable may possess an extended pedigree of selective breeding. This is widely accurate despite numerous distinctive plant species which are gathered under the general categorisation of vegetable.

Like racehorses, and fancy dog breeds, most of our cultivated vegetables bear minimal resemblance to their wild forebears. As a consequence, their proliferation and survival depends upon the maintenance of favourable conditions within a reasonably controlled and stable environment. In choosing an appropriate site for growing vegetables, I recommend the optimum management of four influential factors: sunlight, water and drainage, soil chemistry, physical protection and accessibility.

Sunlight

Like all green plants, vegetable species survive by converting carbon dioxide, water, and sunlight into the basic carbohydrates stored within their cells. The edible parts of a vegetable are largely composed of cellulose, starch, and sugars. Smaller quantities of protein, oils and steroidal compounds are generated from organic and inorganic soil nutrients which also require sunlight to facilitate their absorption.

While some plant species are capable of flourishing with modest quantities of sunlight, it is a fact that most vegetables require plenty of sunlight to reach their potential. While traditional winter vegetables like cauliflower and turnips can accommodate lower intensities of sunlight, they will never thrive when its availability is restricted for extended periods. This means that an ideal location for growing vegetables receives sunlight for most of the day, without the encumbrance of overhanging tree branches, hedges or shrubbery. Vine growing vegetables in particular, require large exposures of sunlight to ripen properly.

Access to sunlight plays a significant role in maintaining soil and ambient temperatures. Remember that most vegetable species will be injured by temperatures at or slightly below freezing, unless they can be acclimatised to tolerate these levels. It is preferable to locate them in a warm location. The traditional planting arrangement of rows running north to south is often used to provide a maximum and even quantity of sunlight throughout the day.

Water and drainage

Vegetable crops develop water requirements which are specific to their variety, maturity, and the surrounding atmospheric and soil characteristics. With respect to drainage, it is the physical topography of a particular site which assumes the most significant role. The immediate elevation, slope, and soil structure needs to be carefully assessed before establishing the vegetable garden.

The most suitable types of location have gentle surface slopes and contain deep and well drained soils. Many vegetable growers prefer a moderately heavy loam with at least several feet of topsoil. While a deep sandy loam can also be very good for root crops like carrots and beets, it is better to avoid the types of heavy clay soils which become sodden in winter. This is particularly relevant for flat and low lying sites which cannot facilitate the surface drainage of air and water. Unless the underlying soil is well structured, continuous waterlogging is likely to damage plants by restricting oxygen absorption at the roots.

Soil chemistry

Most vegetables require a mildly acidic or neutral soil with a pH reading between six and seven. There are exceptions like cabbage and cauliflower, which grow poorly in acidic soils and prefer the pH to be seven or higher. The majority of cultivated vegetables also require nutrient rich soils with the structural capacity to deliver sufficient amounts of water and air to the plant roots.

For serious growers, a professional soil assessment is a worthwhile investment. This enables any problems to be efficiently treated, prior to planting. If there is evidence of mineral imbalance or specific deficiencies, there are some natural clays and organic extracts which will enhance the soils productive capacity, particularly over the longer term. Because vegetable crops require substantial quantities of colloidal minerals and water soluble nutrients, even well balanced soils should be improved by the regular addition of organic materials in the months prior to sowing vegetables. An exception to this advice would be root crops like turnips, which grow better without compost.

Physical protection and accessibility

Vegetable crops require a degree of protection against the elements. In their wild state, annual and perennial plants frequently obtain cover from larger plant species or establish themselves around natural crevices and other protective structures. When choosing a site for their vegetables, gardeners need to consider the prevalence of strong winds and heavy rains which can easily desiccate young plants. Gardens provide moderate shelter when they’re situated alongside a fence or wall, although try to ensure this doesn’t restrict access to adequate sunlight. Climbing varieties like cucumber, peas, and ornamental peppers will always benefit from the warmth and support of a sun drenched wall. For the additional protection of delicate varieties and immature seedlings, it is acceptable to surround vegetable beds with temporary net barriers or low density shrubbery. When choosing shrubs, try to obtain native species or other sturdy varieties with modest water requirements.

An ability to secure convenient access is frequently overlooked when choosing the best site for an organic vegetable garden. I usually encourage people to plant their vegetables and herbs as close as possible to the kitchen. This is likely to ensure that the garden becomes integrated with the everyday activities of food preparation, socialising, and entertainment. The direct route between garden and kitchen may be travelled so frequently that a pathway is suggested. Non slip concrete, pebbled, or flagstone pavers are visually attractive on warm afternoons, and will also prove themselves invaluable during prolonged wet weather. Finally, for gardens of substantial size, don’t neglect the importance of maintaining access for vehicles and equipment, garden storage sheds, water faucets, and enthusiastic visitors.

There are a few genuine perennials but most organic vegetables are annuals selected for either warm or cool season propagation. Because they produce their entire crop within a single growing season, consistent outcomes depend upon sowing at the best times within the correct half of the year. A normal temperature range of 7-20 degree Celsius is ideal for cool season varieties. They are sown in autumn and the maturing vegetables will develop their distinctive flavours during the shorter days of winter. Some will tolerate cooler temperatures and frost better than others, so this is worth investigating for gardens of inland or elevated regions. Examples of cool season vegetables include onion, turnip, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and spinach.

Warm season vegetables prefer temperatures ranging between 20 and 30 degree celsius. These are sown in spring and grow most vigorously during the extended warmth of summer. Included in this category are the beans, capsicum sweetcorn, potatoes, sweet potato, and vine crops such as cucumber, zuchini, and aubergine. A group of vegetables including celery, beetroot, carrots, and silver beet prefer intermediate temperatures (15-25) and should therefore be treated as cool season vegetables in warmer climates or as warm season vegetables in cooler regions.

Starting with good quality organic seeds

When raising plants from seed, it is vital to obtain good quality supplies. Avoid using any seeds that may have been mishandled or stored incorrectly. The best option is to purchase from reputable organic suppliers who offer a guarantee of quality. Before planting, seeds must be carefully stored in a cool, dry location, preferably sealed against air and moisture. Each variety of seed will have its optimal storage period, although most will remain viable over several years. A simple test involves placing around twenty seeds onto a moist towel which is stored in a drying cupboard. After a few days a percentage of the seeds should have germinated. A minimum of twelve seeds (60% germination) is indicative of viable stock.

Many vegetable plants have large seeds which are suitable for direct sowing in prepared soil. In addition to convenience, direct sowing avoids the problem of transfer shock that can occur whenever punnet seedlings are suddenly introduced to outdoor garden conditions. Direct sowing avoids double handling but will also assist plants to catch up whenever their seasonal sowing date has been delayed. Corn, peas, beans, and most of the root crops like beetroot and turnip are ideal candidates for direct sowing.

The main disadvantage with direct sowing is that seedlings need to quickly establish themselves in order to compete against other plants for their share of sunlight, water, and soil nutrients. They may also need to withstand temperature fluctuations, soil borne disease and predation from insects, birds, and other animals. Green leafy vegetables, particularly traditional salad varieties, have small seeds and a delayed germination that often produces delicate seedlings. This restricts their ability to cope with conditions in the open garden. Modern varieties of lettuce, celery, spinach, and cabbage are now selected to produce rapid growth as seedlings. This trait assists them to secure territory quickly and offset the relative disadvantage of their small seed size.

Supervision and protection

Even when they have been directly sown, seedlings raised in outdoor gardens require appropriate levels of supervision. They are particularly exposed and vulnerable to unsettled cold periods and seasonal shifts of weather. Some protection can be provided by sheltering them with clear plastic tarpaulin, or the individual cloches that are sold in nurseries and garden supply centres. Covers made at home from plastic cups, sawn off drink bottles, or large diameter tubing can also provide some temporary protection that is both inexpensive and effective. Juvenile plants are susceptible to snails, slugs, and assorted larvae which will feed voraciously on new shoots and leaves. Simple physical removal is the most effective remedy against slugs and snails. The task becomes easier after dark when a flashlight is used to locate the feeding molluscs. When this is done consistently over several weeks, the local population will be significantly decreased, at which point weekly maintenance patrols should be sufficient.

New seedlings also require protection from birds and animals. Birds are initially attracted to the raked surfaces of new seedbeds where they bathe in the dust and capture any worms or larvae that become exposed near the surface. Once the seedlings emerge, many species will attempt to feed on them. Barriers constructed from semi circular hooping with fine mesh coverings will protect plants from birds as well as from other animals and domestic pets. Without this restraint, cats and dogs can cause a lot of damage to immature plants by physically rolling or digging within the garden bed.

Raising seedlings indoors

Raising seedlings indoors is the most convenient and popular method for controlling and protecting the early development of many plants including those grown as garden vegetables. Commercial organic and mainstream vegetable producers often rely on indoor sowing techniques to achieve the volumes required for viable results. Numerous seedlings are raised in small containers or punnets until they are mature enough to be transferred to outdoor conditions. One advantage of this method is an ability to sow on a given date, irrespective of external weather conditions. This requires spacious indoor nurseries that are climate controlled plus additional propagation equipment that can be expensive to purchase and operate.

Germination conditions

Whether raised indoors or sown directly into a garden, seeds require a well aerated, moist environment and a minimum temperature (around 10 degree Celsius) to successfully germinate. Seeds contain a fat store to provide energy for the first few days of growth. After this period they will be dependent on sunshine (or artificial lighting), moisture, air, and soil nutrients to facilitate their development. Depending on the variety, vegetable seedlings that emerge in clumps should be thinned after several weeks. Plants crowded too close together will compete for resources and can be prone to fungal disease, as the circulation of air is restricted. Removing the weaker plants at this early stage will reduce competition and enable the strongest plants to mature under ideal conditions.

Once they have reached a height around twelve centimetres, container raised seedlings can be transplanted into open ground. At this stage extra attention is required to ensure they are protected from direct sunlight or exposure to drying heat. Water them carefully the night before transplanting and discard any that appear weak or damaged. Overcast conditions or light rain can be ideal, since this helps prevent the delicate roots from drying out. Dark plastic bags can be used to cover seedlings and maintain a protective humidity. It is best to prepare several shallow soil depressions in advance so that each seedling can be transferred efficiently, with minimum handling. With a punnet positioned alongside the depression, squeeze the sides together, tilt upside down then reverse, allowing its contents to slip neatly into an open hand. Lay the transplant gently within the soil depression and secure with a handful of soil and a firm but gentle pat.

Interplanting, crop rotation and companion cropping have been used for centuries to improve the quality and efficiency of organic vegetable production. The techniques are flexible and relatively simple to initiate when sowing a garden. When space is limited, two crops can be planted together so long as they do not compete or interfere with each others growth.

The classic example of interplanting is to sow shallow rooted vegetables such as lettuces or spinach with deep rooted ones like carrots and beetroot. Crop rotation is used to protect soil quality as well as preventing soil borne disease. An example of effective crop rotation is a garden bed that grows legumes (peas or beans) followed by leafy vegetables such as spinach or kale. During their growth, legumes release bacterial enzymes, fixing nitrogen that will benefit leaf development of the subsequent crop. Companion planting is used as a means to control insect pests and to bring out rich flavours in organic vegetables. Evidence based research is limited however there are good publications available, containing regional surveys and planting recommendations.

Quick tip

A lot of the people we meet are absolutely passionate about their gardening. When the topic of seeds is raised there is always a widely agreed wisdom, which rarely changes. Start with the highest quality seed available. Purchase the stock from local seed merchants who care about their reputation. For a number of reasons, organic gardeners may prefer to obtain original heirloom or open pollinated varieties as opposed to the hybrid stocks which are commonly distributed by leading horticultural companies.

In partnership with her husband, Anne Foss operates a niche business out of Hallandale, Florida. Eden Organic Nursery Services (E.O.N.S) offer gardening enthusiasts a spectacular diversity of seeds, the majority of which are open pollinated. Anne explains that government regulations have now enabled hybrid stock to be organically certified. While these certified seeds may be chemical free, hybrid plants have generally been associated with increased levels of fertiliser and pesticide input. Selectively bred from distant relatives of the same species, hybrids were often developed to obtain increased yields. The downside is that many hybrid species have significantly lower resistance to disease and insect problems. By contrast, open pollinated or traditional plant varieties have been developed over centuries of agricultural endeavour. By breeding true to type, open pollinated plants possess an ability to adapt to local garden conditions. As an added bonus, many experts are convinced that produce obtained from open pollinated plants is superior in flavour or in the case of medicinal plants, contain higher concentrations of their active substances.

On account of their selective breeding, many vegetable varieties have an inherently low resistance and tolerance against insect pests and disease. As a consequnce, they can be challenging to raise according to strict organic principles. When discussing vegetable gardening in public, I’ll routinely advise beginners that they should expect to lose a certain percentage of their plants to insects and disease each season. Most individuals will accept this. Those who don’t might be comforted to know that the skills and tenacity developed in raising organic vegetables can also be applied to more robust species such as herbs, native shrubs, and flowers.

Since the early sixties, I’ve avoided those chemical products designed for controlling insect pests and plant disease in the garden. Despite adherence to an organic philosophy, some of my gardening colleagues occassionally purchase a chemical preparation which claims to control or eliminate problems caused by plant disease or insect infestation. When describing their reasons, they often grow defensive, as though I were preparing to condemn them for some kind of criminal behaviour. This is silly. It’s not about scoring or losing points. I’m opposed to fanaticism of any sort and always attempt to remain broad minded in my approach to organics. Don’t get into the habit of trying to be more “organic” than your friends and neighbours. I’ve seen people become discouraged by pursuing what appears to be the latest trend in gardening. It’s much easier to raise healthy organic vegetables when you ignore the competitive nonsense which appears to float around these days.

I try to avoid chemical products because I’m convinced they provide incomplete and short term solutions. Consider the average insecticide spray, for example. Despite advertising claims about selectivity, the majority of products kill indiscriminately. They upset the natural balance between nuisance insects and the predatory organisms which control their numbers within a complex ecosystem. Choose the right chemical and it’s possible to exterminate the aphid population which may have attacked your pumpkin vines. It’s also more than likely that the vast web of insect life within your garden will be similarly affected by the chemicals used to control the aphids. Does that really matter? Well yes, actually it does. The lifecycle of an aphid is approximately one week, so within a fortnight you should expect to see them return. Unfortunately, many of the aphid’s natural predators are more complex organisms with lifecycles in the order of several months. They take considerably longer to return. By knocking out their natural predators for several months or more, the chemicals provide the window of opportunity for local aphid populations to quickly reestablish themselves. Ultimately, the short term chemical treatments fail to provide permanent solutions, and are actually more likely to aggravate the original problem.

There is no certain remedy for alleviating problems caused by nuisance insects or disease pathogens. The organic grower depends upon establishing an environment which supports a range of protective resources which in turn strengthens the internal capabilities which enable most plants to maintain health and resist attack. While it’s possible to enhance your local growing conditions with minor interventions such as additional watering, and soil improvement, there are many components which cannot be altered without considerable effort or expense.  From a practical perspective, it’s important to preference those varieties of vegetable which can comfortably adapt to the local growing conditions. The likelihood of encountering serious pest and disease problems is significantly decreased when organic vegetables are raised according to suitable climatic and seasonal conditions.

The most important principle of organic gardenining is based upon taking care of the soil’s needs which provides the foundation for a complex ecosystem, including the plants we grow for food. Maintaining healthy soils with a plentiful store of nutrients and sufficient moisture retention will provide your vegetables their best opportunity to grow healthy and strong. Any slowing of plant growth due to lack of nutrients, moisture, or sunlight will lower natural immunity and create opportunities for disease or insect pests to establish themselves.

I purchase my seeds from a specialist supplier who stocks many of the traditional vegetable types which are becoming increasingly difficult to source. As a consequence, I have limited first hand knowledge of the contemporary varieties which are less susceptible to certain forms of disease. In recent years, many organic growers have experienced positive outcomes with new generations of disease resistant tomatoes, onions, and lettuce. These are mostly hybrids with improved vigour and superior crop yields. Unfortunately they are more expensive to purchase, and, unlike their non-hybrid cousins, cannot be satisfactorily grown from collected seed.

People sometimes ask me how I manage to correctly identify the various pests and diseases which attack their vegetables, and other types of plant. I have to admit this amount of faith in my abilities is somewhat overstated. Okay, I’ve gained a decent amount of experience over the years and I’m fairly comfortable diagnosing the common and everyday symptoms of insect and disease pests. Like everyone else, I get it wrong on occassions, and sometimes I’m just plain perplexed. A few months ago I was asked to identify some weevils which were found amidst a crop of sweetcorn. They were smaller than the common brown variety and brightly colourful with streaks of iridescent blue across their back. I’d never previously encountered this variety so had no insight into their larval development or lifecycle. We ended up forwarding our collected specimens to an entomologist based at the zoological gardens. Several weeks later, I received an urgent telephone call from a quarantine official. He introduced himelf as the coordinator of a task force established to trace the unexplained arrival of these insects. Originating from elevated regions of Mexico, and Central America, this foreign weevil was considered a biosecurity risk.

The most accurate warning signs for identification or diagnosis of particular disease and insect problems will vary depending on a garden’s physical location, climate, and soil characteristics. One of the best studies for newcomers is to visit local gardeners who can share some of their own experience and perhaps offer suggestions about the early identification and control of frequently encountered diseases and insect pests. Keeping a regular garden notebook or journal is generally worth the effort. Try to include detailed notes about the visible signs of any problem along with the effectiveness of any control methods attempted. Most of the important issues related to gardening are cyclical or components of a larger scheme. With the help of careful observations undertaken over several growing seasons, the previously unexplained should begin to make sense. At the very least, good records will reduce gardening mistakes along with repetition of ineffective treatments.

Quick tip

Until recently, organic growers were frequently discouraged by the inconsistent availability and efficacy of products manufactured for controlling pests. Those dedicated to low impact and ecologically sustainable management options were occassionally compelled to develop their own recipes or depend on backyard scientists with good intentions. The industry responded with the gradual emergence of manufacturers keen to develop new products based on extensive research and development.

Operating since 1990, Organic Crop Protectants supply a range of specialty horticultural products to Australian commercial growers and recreational gardeners. General Manager, Gary Leeson describes their customer base as a combination of organic and conventional growers. “Our organic customers are very aware of the environmental and health implications as well as the social implications of organics versus large scale corporate farming. For conventional growers, the focus is often directed toward the practical benefits which can be quickly realised. By reducing exposure to certain harmful chemicals, an organically certified product can often improve the occupational health and safety profile of their operations. Many growers are also interested in control measures which avoid widespread negative effects on beneficial insect populations. This is particularly true for those involved with greenhouse food production systems”.

Commercial realities are another factor driving the current popularity of low impact controls. Primary producers are competing for overseas markets which now demand more sensitive screening levels for a wider range of chemical residues.

Serious minded professional and recreational gardeners are also looking for opportunities to reduce their dependence on harmful chemicals. Gary Leeson’s convinced that most consumers now want to use safer sprays. His optimism is restrained by the fact that many consumers are blind to what makes a good garden spray. “There are so many pest control products in the garden section that consumers are completely confused about what is a safe and effective spray and what isn’t. Many of the agrochemical companies that purchase mainstream advertising are continuing to push broad spectrum insecticides. Even the word ‘organic’ has been stolen and misappropriated”. When consumers require certainty about a product’s credentials they can request the safety data sheets and check whether it is registered organic by a reputable certifying authority.

After gaining some practical experience, many vegetable gardeners will proceed to develop schedules of routine cultivation. Over the years I’ve encountered the unbelievably complex, stunningly simplified versions and more or less everything in between. As usual, my personal philosophy on organic vegetable gardening is to concentrate on the basic principles. In most cases these are flexible and can be customised to suit the local growing conditions.

My initial recommendation is to avoid any of the prescriptive tables which recommend precise dates for sowing and harvesting. Those of us with years of gardening under our belts can testify to the lack of seasonal consistency which significantly decreases the utility of their application. Having said this, I understand that most worthwhile aspects of human culture and endeavour are based on natural and sometimes arbitrary classification schemes. I’m even aware of several successful gardeners who use astrological charts and calendars to schedule their activities. Now this sounds like the outer limits so I cannot help raising both eyebrows when informed that celestial events will influence the growth of my beans and tomatoes.

Vegetables can be classified into cool and warm season varieties. It makes sense to plant warm season vegetables like tomatoes, sweet corn, squash, and sweet potatoes during the final month of spring. If there is a warm summer, these will be granted the opportunity to reach their full potential. Cool season vegetables are traditionally sown during the autumn. This enables seedlings to become established before the arrival of winter frosts. The varieties most resistant to colder temperatures are beetroot, broad beans, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, parsnip, spinach, and turnip. In temperate climates, there are several vegetables which seem to tolerate the full range of seasonal conditions. These include mustard greens, lettuce, radish, and cabbages.

The article on sowing and planting organic vegetables described how to raise vegetables as seedlings in containers. It also outlined the requirements for direct sowing to outdoor situations. One of the routine tasks in any vegetable garden is the selection and thinning of immature plants. Timing is an important element. If attempted too early, it is difficult to identify weak specimens and organise plants sufficiently to ensure optimum growth and accessibility. Delayed attempts at thinning can disturb roots to the extent that plants become weakened or fail to establish. The best opportunity to thin a clump of seedlings arises once they develop their initial set of true leaves and concludes with the development of the second set which are usually identified by their slightly darker colour and coarser texture. While weak or deformed seedlings must be discarded, it’s certainly possible to transplant healthy specimens to a new location. The main exception is common root crops like beetroot, carrots, and parsnips, which are difficult to transplant.

There are numerous approaches for arranging vegetables within garden beds. The best of these focus upon providing each plant with sufficient soil space, sunlight, and water, in addition to maintaining reliable access for the enthusiastic gardener. Once you’ve read my earlier sections on companion planting and planning an organic vegetable garden, you’ll be ready to start laying out the rows. A length of string helps to establish a straight line and the intervals of distance which ensure each plant is allowed sufficient space to grow. The majority of vegetables are comfortable with approximately one foot or thirty centimetres between subsequent rows. I plant my crops in triangular formation, always positioning the next row of plants midway between those on the adjacent row.

Cultivated plants must compete against any surrounding weeds for light, space, water and soil nutrients. The control and eradication of weeds is a sensitive issue which seems to divide opinion among organic gardening experts. There are those who recommend frequent weeding which is both repetitive and labour intensive. Aside from quick results, hand weeding provides an opportunity to routinely check plants for signs of disease, nutrient deficiency or insect infestation. Others argue in favour of the cultural controls which include mulching and regular interplanting with herbs and other plants which outcompete the nuisance weeds. I find it difficult to subscribe exclusively to either approach. At various times, I’ve enjoyed success with both physical removal and mulching. To be honest, some of my best vegetables were grown amongst untidy patches of untended weeds.

In hot and dry conditions, vegetables require deep watering. This is particularly true for immature plants with developing roots. If water doesn’t penetrate deeply into the soil, the roots will remain near the surface, shallow and inefficient. In their natural environment, such plants would be unable to survive an extended drought or dry season. Some species like cabbage and lettuce are naturally shallow rooted and will benefit from applications of mulch. Instead of evaporating quickly, water is held beneath the layers of organic fibre where it can be taken up by the roots. In addition to mulching, organic soil conditioners such as compost and leaf mould will improve the texture, water holding capacity and nutrient profile of most garden soils.

Most annual vegetables benefit from a rotation schedule, where the basic groupings (brassicas, legumes, root vegetables etc) are planted to a different location each season. As one of the basic principles of organic gardening, I’ve already discussed crop rotation in a previous section. In addition to controlling nuisance insects and reducing the prevalence of soil borne disease, crop rotation schedules can assist overworked soils to replenish their organic nutrient profiles. After supporting heavy feeders, garden beds can be replenished with organic soil conditioners then allowed to stand fallow for a season. Heavy feeding plants like squashes and corn will benefit from several applications of liquid fertiliser during their growing season. Good liquid feeds can be made at home from organic materials such as seaweed, nettle leaves, and worm compost.

Quick tip

We frequently receive correspondence from individuals who feel too busy to start their own garden. Time pressured individuals should be aware of propagation nurseries which provide ready to plant seedlings for commercial growers and hobbyists alike. Commencing a garden with healthy stocks of advanced seedlings can increase the overall practicality and efficiency of the remaining time, physical effort, and other resources which must be expended.

Delfland Nurseries are currently the United Kingdom’s leading organic propagator. Their seedlings are raised from untreated seed and protected in climate controlled glasshouses for several weeks. Delfland’s representative, Jill Vaughan agrees that many contemporary gardeners lack the space, time, or expertise to grow everything from seed. Her customers in the United Kingdom can order their plants for an entire season and have them delivered at exactly the right time for planting. The advanced seedlings are better prepared to compete with emerging weeds and they arrive with full planting instructions. An approachable, customer focused propagation nursery may remove some of the barriers which prevent beneficial enjoyment an organic vegetable garden.