Soybeans contain higher amounts of protein and fat than similar plant based foods. They contain many of the essential amino acids along with B group vitamins and minerals. Soybeans are also a rich source of isoflavones and phyto oestrogens, the natural plant hormones which are now believed to protect the body against certain forms of cancer, heart disease, and osteoporosis. They have been cultivated as an important food source in China, Japan, and Korea for thousands of years. In Japan today, soybean products are still used in preference to most animal sourced dairy items. As part of their traditional approach to food, the Japanese have developed very precise and accurate techniques for evaluating the quality of soybeans.

Until recently, the western application of soybeans was limited to lower grade varieties which were mainly harvested for applications in the processed food industry or as a protein rich feed for farm animals. There had also been interest in promoting higher quality soybeans as a staple food for regions with marginal and emerging economies.

Genetic modification

Developments in biotechnology have led to modification of soybean strains which enable them to resist widespread and repeated applications of herbicide used to control weeds after sowing. This has increased the operational scale and efficiency of large output producers but has also concentrated unprecedented economic influence with organisations in control of the new technologies.

With a lack of research-based evidence, many of the earlier debates and controversies regarding genetically modified foods appear to have subsided. An obvious exception is perhaps, the resistance among parents and child health workers who refuse to accept assurances that modified soy ingredients are appropriate for use in infant formula. Soy protein isolates are currently used in several of the products which are commonly prescribed for lactose intolerant infants and those with specific allergies to dairy foods.

Pesticide contamination

Conventionally produced soybeans often contain traces of pesticide and other agricultural chemicals. Since most modern pesticides are carefully designed to break down to less harmful compounds over time, dangerous levels of contamination will usually arise from persistent soil residues of banned substances like dieldrin.

Organic soybean crops

To meet organic certification standards, producers undertake comprehensive soil testing to exclude the possibility of pesticide contamination from previous applications. All forms of genetic modification are specifically prohibited under organic certification guidelines. High quality, organically produced soybeans can be sourced from many countries, although these now command significant premiums over the market price for conventional or genetically modified produce. Because they remain susceptible to several species of insect pest, organic producers usually rotate their soybeans with corn, oats, wheat, and other grains. When grown intermittently, every third season for example, the normal development cycle for many of these pests is disrupted.

As a food source

In their basic form, soybeans are difficult to digest. Anyone attempting to prepare them is likely to be confronted with a tough, dry, and bitter tasting bean which doesn’t appear overly promising. An appropriate solution is to soak then grind the beans into a nutritious paste which is then filtered to produce an evenly textured milk which remains slightly bitter but can be consumed directly. In many countries, this pure substance is heated then blended with vegetable oils, corn syrup, and other ingredients to simulate the flavour and texture of cows milk. Soymilk can be further processed into the soft curd, popularly known as tofu. This versatile substance is used in many Asian dishes where it’s uniform and delicate taste contrasts with the pungent flavours of fresh herbs like garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and spicy peppers. Soybeans are also used to manufacture fermented foods such as tempeh, miso, and tamari. The fermentation provides distinctive flavour and allows soy protein to be more easily digested.

Twenty years ago, soy products were subject to a range of negative associations and stereotypes. Initially described as bland and tasteless, they were not appreciated beyond a subculture of vegetarians, vegans, and alternative health seekers. For older generations, dietary inclusion of soy products was often initiated as a consequence of medical or health related factors. Patients with arteriosclerosis, heart disease, diabetes and other lifestyle related illnesses were frequently advised to replace cows milk with soymilk. Under these conditions, a defensive response was not unusual and many patients seem to have experienced negative reactions to the taste, texture, and smell of soymilk products.

In order to establish their products in a positive light, one prominent manufacturer of soymilk now engages athletes and sporting personalities to promote it as a wholesome food with significant health benefits. Popular acceptance of soymilk has paved the way for related products like tofu, miso, and tempeh. Today, it is easy enough to find terrific recipes for these in popular food magazines and their internet sites.       

Today, there are an incredible variety of organic cheese products available from almost every region of the world. Frequently named as one of the most basic and historically ancient foods, cheese continues to distinguish itself with the ongoing popularity of five traditional varieties. The big five include fetta, mozzarella, Parmesan, Swiss and cheddar. Visit your nearest continental delicatessen and ask the proprietor about cheese sales. Whether you live in New York, London, or Sydney, the big five will represent around seventy percent of total cheese sales. Each of the big five varieties is produced in extremely large volumes every year with vast differences in quality between the premium and average grades of cheese. There are of course many contemporary cheese makers who prefer to avoid high volume and mainstream production to pursue one or more of the artisanal varieties.

High quality raw materials

The overall quality and nutritional value of any cheese is undoubtedly determined by the quality of its raw ingredients. Primarily this involves milk, whether it is sourced from cows, goat, sheep, buffalo, yak, or reindeer. A second, most important ingredient is the culture or bacterial enzymes required to initiate the curd. Other ingredients used to flavour boutique and dessert cheeses can include herbs, fruit, nuts, and grains.

Nutritional analyses of milk from pasture fed cows have revealed significantly higher amounts of linoleic acid compared to the milk from grain fed animals. At certain times of the year, notably spring and autumn, pasture fed milk is likely to contain up to five times the linoleic acid content of milk produced through grain feeds. Linoleic acid has been linked to a reduced incidence of certain types of cancer.

There are also studies which reveal organic milk to have higher proportions of vitamin E, beta carotene, and Omega 3 fatty acids compared to conventional milk. Vitamin E and beta-carotene are important antioxidants while Omega 3 can assist in lowering blood cholesterol levels. In combination, these reports suggest that organic milk obtained from pasture fed animals provides superior nutritional qualities than alternative supplies. While many people have become accustomed to the watery taste of low fat milk, the creamier texture of milk obtained from healthy, pasture fed animals remains the best ingredient for making most varieties of cheese.

One hundred years ago, the majority of cheeses were handmade in small batches using fresh local ingredients. Depending on the variety and desired vintage, finished cheeses were coated in wax then left to mature slowly in underground cellars. Since that time, advancements in manufacturing technology have resulted in commercial operations which deliver large volumes of standardised product to supermarkets and convenience stores around the country. The cheeses are made in anonymous dairy processing factories with fresh and powdered milk, preservative, stabilisers, synthetic cultures, and a range of other additives including colouring agents, flavours, and thickeners. From uniform blocks, the cheese is then sliced, shredded, or even pressed into fancy shapes before shrink-wrapping in retail or commercial catering packets.

While most supermarkets appear to have a reasonably wide selection of cheeses, it is quite possible that eighty or ninety percent are manufactured by the same processor before being represented as a particular packaged brand. With few exceptions, these mass produced cheeses are somewhat bland and lifeless compared with traditionally made varieties. Considering the distinctive differences in ingredients and process, this is not particularly surprising.

Traditional cheese making

Traditional cheese makers begin with whole milk and rarely if ever use powdered or low fat substitutes. In many regions of Europe, it is standard practice to use raw, unpasteurised milk in cheese. True cheese contains a living bacterial culture and raw milk provides a superior environment for the controlled growth of selected strains. Some experts consider that the stronger cultures of unpasteurised whole milk ensure superior flavour and texture. Others prefer to compromise a little on taste to ensure the hygiene and safety advantages of pasteurised whole milk.

At present, the manufacture and sale of raw milk cheeses is prohibited in many states on account of health and agricultural quarantine regulations. Because it represents a traditional method of cheese making still practiced in many regions of the world today, the controversy surrounding the availability of raw milk cheeses is likely to continue. Consumers should be advised that it is certainly possible to obtain very high quality and flavoursome cheeses which are fashioned from pasteurised whole milk. Traditional cheeses may also depend upon the milk provided by other ruminant animals such as sheep, reindeer, buffalo, goats, and yak.

In Southern Tasmania, David Hagarty fashions a unique cheese he refers to as a “boccinoli”. Made from pasteurised goats milk, the cheese has a mild peppery taste and is perfect for use in slow baked dishes where it melts soft and elastic beneath a firm surface, similar to true mozzarella. Operating on an intimate scale, David supplies his boccinoli to several vineyards in the region. At present the cheese is only available between January and March although he anticipates extending his season over the next few years. “We’ve just bought another acre of land”, he explains. “When it’s properly fenced, we’ll buy a few more milking goats from an organic farm in Victoria”. So if you’re ever passing through the Huon Valley, ask a few of the locals about David and his boccinoli.

There’s little doubt that organic cheese production is worth pursuing, in spite of the high costs involved. Like wine, the individual qualities of cheese are largely determined by the foundations of climate and soil which uniquely characterise each area. This fact is apparently lost on the dairy conglomerates which purchase successful regional brands then rationalise them by importing cheaper milk from elsewhere.

In the interests of promoting their unique cheese varieties, local producers now frequently offer group tours and appreciation courses. When combined with a selection of red wines, there cannot be a more enjoyable approach to learning the complexities and subtleties of this fascinating food. Ordering mixed cheese platters instead of dessert is another convenient approach for those wishing to sample a variety of local and imported cheeses.

Anyone who visits a reputable organic dairy farm will begin to appreciate that the quality and taste of milk, cream, and other products is largely determined by the living conditions of the animals, particularly their access to healthy pasture. Cows have a complex digestive system which enables them to process and absorb nutrients from fibrous plant material like grass, dandelion, and clover. Milk obtained from grass fed cows is particularly rich in important vitamins and minerals.

Under normal dietary conditions, the fat content of cows milk is determined largely by the breed and the time of year. Jersey cows produce moderate quantities of milk with a high proportion of buttermilk compared to Fresian and Holstein cows, which provide large volumes of milk with relatively low buttermilk content. With pasture fed cows, the milk tends to be creamier and also contains a higher proportion of linoleic acid during the spring and autumn.

Linoleic is one of the essential fatty acids which assist cells to maintain their protective barrier and function normally. Research from Britain and Denmark has compared the nutrient compositions of organic and conventionally produced milk. Many of the recent studies have disputed claims that the nutrient composition of organic milk is essentially equivalent to conventional. For example, Danish scientists found organic milk to be significantly higher in vitamin E and beta carotene. Three independent research bodies in Britain confirmed the presence of higher levels of Omega 3 fatty acids in organic milk (Ellis et al, 2006).

Intensive dairy production

In many parts of the world, traditional methods of dairy production have been replaced by intensive systems which aim to increase the total volume of milk supplied. Among the more unpleasant examples of intensive farming is dairy production without access to pasture. Unfortunate cows are restricted to artificial feedlots, or cages. Their natural, herbivorous grazing is replaced by a controlled diet of high protein mixtures, euphemistically described as cattle cake. A protein rich diet accelerates the cow’s metabolism, enabling them to produce larger quantities of milk each day. Depending on supplies, cattle cake contains basic grains like wheat, barley, rice, and oats plus alfalfa, and soy meal.

During the nineties, controversy surrounded revelations that intensively reared beef and dairy cattle were given rendered feeds containing animal proteins like fish meal along with recycled beef and sheep carcasses. Many of the high volume dairy operators refuse to blame rendered protein feeds with sudden outbreaks of disease.

Growth hormones and antibiotics

There is also substantial industry support for the use of synthetic growth hormone, and antibiotic treatments. In states which authorise its use, dairy cattle may be given synthetic growth hormone as a means to increase normal milk production by approximately fifteen percent. The negative side effects on cattle include reproductive difficulties and an increased incidence of udder infection which usually requires antibiotic treatment. In terms of the qualitative effect on milk, growth hormones increase normal levels of growth factor. At present, there is ongoing debate about the potential for increased levels of growth factor to adversely influence human health.

In dairy cattle, antibiotics are primarily used to treat udder and hoof infections. On occasions, weanling calves will be administered sub therapeutic levels of an antibiotic to enhance their growth and development.

Unlike poultry and beef, milk products are routinely tested for antibiotic contamination and those with detectable levels are immediately removed from distribution. In reality, this is not enforced because of concerns for human health but rather because antibiotics prevent the manufacture of important food items such as yoghurt and cheeses, by destroying their bacterial cultures.

If traces of antibiotic are unlikely to be present in the milk supply, what are the consumer groups and medical scientists worried about? Their concern is that routine use of these medications in farmed animals is creating new strains of antibiotic resistant bacteria. Once established in significant colonies, resistant strains have the capacity to infect humans. The illnesses caused by infectious agents like salmonella and listeria are increasingly difficult to treat with conventional antibiotics. The lack of regular treatment options can have serious implications for infants, the elderly, and patients with compromised immune function.

At the present time, organically certified milk and cream products constitute only a small fraction of total milk sales by volume (Hill & Lynchehaun, 2002). Interestingly, a lot of the organic milk is currently being sold to upmarket coffee houses where it is used in latte, cappuccino, and other drinks.

Consumer preferences

Health conscious consumers generally prefer their milk to have low saturated fat content, less than two percent. There is also some evidence that consumers prefer the appearance and taste of homogenised milk.

During the homogenisation process, milk is forced through micro strainers under pressure. This causes solid fat particles to break apart resulting in an even dispersion throughout the liquid.  Organic producers often refuse to homogenise their milk, meaning that the fat will rise naturally to the top as cream. Don’t confuse homogenisation with pasteurisation, which involves heating the milk to inhibit the growth of bacteria. Organic dairy producers are obliged to pasteurise their milk in compliance with current health and safety standards.

Raw milk

Some health gurus and food writers like to preach the benefits of raw milk which is unpasteurised. Aside from being banned from sale in many states, you’d want to be certain that the cows were scrupulously healthy and the extraction and bottling procedures were conducted hygienically. It’s true that raw milk was widely consumed one hundred years ago but there was also a lower life expectancy and many deaths related to contaminated foods. If you insist on drinking raw milk, have a word with your doctor beforehand.
 

According to market researchers, there are six underlying factors which influence consumers deciding between organically certified and conventional dairy produce. By a considerable degree, the most important of these is a concern for product safety. This is demonstrated by our instinctive desire to be reassured that exacting standards have been met to minimise the risk of modern food contaminants, particularly those suspected of creating preventable health problems. Fair enough. We live in a technologically complex age with many benefits and advantages. All the same, there are lots of people who feel uncomfortable with agricultural chemicals and genetically altered proteins in the food chain.

Optimal nutrition

Closely related to the concern for safety is our desire to locate food items which provide important nutrients for health and vitality. It is a fact that many food resources are now terribly degraded by processing and the inclusion of food additives. The goal of conventional food production is often to deliver high volumes of standardised and cost efficient products. Medical authorities are beginning to warn parents about an increased prevalence of affluent malnourishment which is caused by an abundance of low nutrient, calorie dense snacks, and the relative scarcity of wholesome, natural foods in the diet.

Some of the dairy products marketed to children may well contribute to the problem. Consider the popular range of flavoured milk, smoothies, and the nondescript dairy foods which stack alongside custard puddings and flavoured yoghurt. Instead of fresh ingredients, these products are likely to contain processed milk which was cooked at high temperatures to kill bacteria along with many of the natural vitamins. They are thickened with gelatine, sweetened, flavoured and packaged in cheerfully attractive colours. Some are fortified with additional nutrients.

Once familiar with these products, children may find it difficult to appreciate a plain glass of fresh milk, or organic yoghurt sweetened with bush honey. While organic certification provides no additional assurance of an items nutritional status, consumers report that it does encourage the selection of healthier items and eliminates many poor choices.

Animal welfare

The next factor considered by consumers is the welfare and rights of the animals which are farmed to provide dairy products. Organic dairy farmers are guided by standards which control important aspects of animal husbandry and management. They include references to feed, accommodation, veterinary treatment, routine inspections, and the safe introduction of new animals to the herd.

Compared with the intensively scaled operations of many conventional dairy operators, organically raised cows are usually maintained in small herds. This reduces the risk of disease and enables pastures to be selectively rotated. Since organic standards prevent the use of growth hormones, young animals mature slowly, building their natural resistance against parasites and disease.

Sustainable practices

Consumers choose organic dairy products because they want to support a sustainable agriculture which helps protect the environment for their children and grandchildren. Conventional dairy farmers depend on significant volumes of inexpensive and readily available stock feeds like corn, barley, and soy meal. The feed grains are commercially grown on an enormous scale with the assistance of synthetic fertilisers, selective herbicides, and pesticides. Their continued production and use contributes to soil erosion, groundwater contamination, and the reduction of biodiversity whenever they replace mixed cropping.

Since certified stock feed can be prohibitively expensive and difficult to source, most organic dairies concentrate on developing their own feed supplies, primarily a range of summer and winter pasture. They are raised with natural soil additives which can even be recycled from cow manure. All of these practices conserve energy which might otherwise be required to transport agricultural resources over distance.

Reputation

While the widespread demand for organic produce is a recent trend, reputable organic brands have been around for several decades. In the same way that brand loyalty is developed for conventional food items, many consumers favour the organic products offered by certain companies in preference to others. In terms of organic dairy produce, most consumers are looking to support local companies supplying a range of standard and specialty items. Trust is rapidly developed when organic dairy producers are open and honest about their practices and can demonstrate a genuine commitment to the industry. Even the smallest operators can build a foundation for brand loyalty. In southern Tasmania, David Hagarty produces approximately two hundred litres of premium quality goats’ milk each week. His attitude is simple. “I love when people visit and ask questions”, he says. “When we started out, that’s how it was. I’d contact some organic people and make appointments to visit their farms”.

Affordability

The sixth factor to influence consumer decisions regarding organic products is their cost relative to conventional items. This is certainly relevant for dairy produce since many organic items will be twice or several times the price of conventional brands. So how does a family on a tight budget afford to continue eating organic dairy produce? Unfortunately, in some cases this won’t be feasible.

Organic dairy operations are labour intensive and usually generate less output than conventional ones. To remain commercially viable, organic producers must include their additional costs in the final price of their products. The cost of many organic products is also influenced by their limited availability. When a scarce product is widely sought after, retailers have an opportunity to add an additional premium.

Many people find this frustrating, particularly the organic producers who find themselves catering to an elite group of wealthy consumers. Some time in the future, the hidden costs of conventional agriculture may be revealed through an environment tax. In the meantime, informed consumers will purchase organic products when they can afford to and support those reforms which open the industry to a wider group of consumers.

Have you ever experienced difficulty obtaining organically certified hen’s eggs? From the farmer’s perspective, Jesse Laflamme concedes that filling demand throughout the year can be challenging. Based in New Hampshire, he works alongside his father Gerry to produce Pete and Gerry’s Organic Eggs. Jesse points out that each egg brought to market must be planned for at least eight months in advance. With the high cost of organic grain to factor, there’s little margin for error. He knows of organic egg farmers who miscalculated their growth potential and ended up with surplus eggs which could not be sold to recoup costs. While subject to a cyclical demand, organic egg farms like Pete and Gerry’s continue to provide consumers with premium product choices and a clear alternative to the questionable practices of conventional egg producers.

During the eighties, an emphasis on reducing daily cholesterol intake caused egg consumption to decrease in most urban regions. The relationship between dietary cholesterol and blood cholesterol has now been re-evaluated with the conclusion that genetic and lifestyle factors assume a greater influence along with the intake of saturated fats. As a consequence more nutritionists are recommending eggs as an important source of protein, vitamins, and minerals.

Since the negative eighties, there have been many studies focusing on the positive health benefits of moderate egg consumption. These include the provision of nutrients like choline and biotin which support nervous system functioning and may be protective against Alzheimer’s disease and age related cognitive decline.

Overwhelmed with choice

Before purchasing a carton of commercially produced hen eggs, the modern consumer must negotiate a confusing array of descriptions and labels, many of them designed to conceal the true nature of their production. There are barn eggs, cage eggs, free-range eggs, Omega 3 eggs, vegetarian eggs, and organically certified eggs. Most of them are available in a range of sizes such as medium, large, extra large and jumbo eggs.

Descriptions like omega 3 and vegetarian are used to emphasise some aspect of the hen’s diet. In the case of omega 3 the diet is usually supplemented with flaxseed meal or oil while vegetarian eggs suggest that no rendered or animal proteins are included. Dietary descriptions like these do not provide the consumer with additional information regarding the type of housing, and in some cases the hens will be caged. Barn laid is a confusing description which suggests the hens are uncaged. In all likelihood, the birds will be cramped inside sheds with no access to outdoor runs. Free-range eggs are laid by hens with the freedom to forage outdoors. While the ability to forage outdoors is highly desirable, these hens are usually provided with a supplementary diet of non-organic chicken pellets. This exposes them to a potential range of pesticide and agricultural chemical contaminants.

Certified organic eggs

Organic standards for egg production specify the types of feed, accommodation, and living conditions which are suitable for laying hens. While healthy hens require shelter for security and protection against the elements, they also benefit from the freedom to scratch and forage naturally outdoors. A clean, pollution free range provides a suitably varied natural diet, one that is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and trace elements.

To prevent the accumulation of pesticide and other agricultural chemicals, any supplementary feeds must be obtained from organically certified growers. Flock sizes are usually contained to one thousand birds or fewer, although the notion of this arbitrary limit has stirred controversy between various competing certification authorities.

In order to pass their inspections, organic egg producers must demonstrate commitment to the welfare and wellbeing of their hens. This includes the provision for humane culling of birds affected by parasites, skin and moulting disorders, or beak problems which disrupt normal feeding.

The consequence of a superior diet and lifestyle for these hens is most evident in the texture, taste, and colour of the eggs. To start with, the shell should be consistently thick, smooth, and bright in appearance. Once opened, the raw yolks glisten with a rich, warm colour, while the whites appear firm and clear. Eggs of this quality are welcome in most kitchens, they effectively bind raw ingredients and provide the superior body and support essential for traditionally baked soufflé, omelette, cakes, muffins, and meringue.

Battery hen eggs

In stark contrast to hens raised according to organic standards, battery hens are imprisoned in cramped wire cages stacked row upon row inside overheated hangars. These hangars routinely accommodate several thousand birds at any given time. Stressed and crowded birds peck at each other. To limit the capacity for hens to attach each other, hot wire guillotines are used to remove a third of each hen’s beak. During this “de-beaking” process, a number of hens die of shock.

The productivity of battery hens is regulated by a regime of twenty four hour lighting and carefully measured quantities of protein rich feed, which is sometimes supplemented with antibiotics, colouring agents, and synthetic hormones. The existence of these birds can only be imagined as an extreme vision of cruelty and suffering.

A direct consequence of maintaining large numbers of birds in such unnatural conditions is the increased levels of stress, illness, and disease. Salmonella is a dangerous pathogen, one which is frequently responsible for outbreaks of food poisoning. It was originally a concern restricted to chicken meats, but now includes caged eggs. In the worst-case scenario, salmonella pathogens have a capacity to infect the ovaries of laying hens. In response to numerous incidents of food poisoning, the handling regulations for eggs have been improved to include mandatory items such as refrigerated transportation. While this has reduced some of the risk, it misses the original source of the problem.

At present, some egg producers are able to continue their operations despite evidence of salmonella infection within their flocks. Instead of supplying their fresh eggs to discount supermarkets and chain stores, there are opportunities to enter the growing market for low-grade bulk eggs. These are processed within industrial size vats which shell, filter, and pasteurise as many as fifty thousand eggs each hour. Packaged into standard volumes, the treated eggs are widely used in catering kitchens and for industrial manufacturing of cakes, biscuits, frozen foods, mayonnaise, and protein supplements.

Sourcing quality eggs

Organically certified eggs can be ordered through most whole food suppliers, fresh food distributors, and health food stores. They are often stacked alongside the cage eggs in supermarkets and convenience stores. This is a practice which should be discouraged since there is always the potential for these products to become mixed together.

Consumers should remember that eggshells are porous and will not necessarily protect eggs from harmful bacteria.

Farmers markets have become very popular and there are usually plenty of good quality eggs available. Not all of them will be organically certified, but it is usually possible to get some idea about their quality by speaking with vendors. Fresh eggs purchased from markets are likely to be randomly sized and speckled with dirt and manure, which is often a shock to those familiar with commercially produced eggs since these are generally washed and graded prior to packing.