Organic specialty drinks

Over recent years there has been a steady increase in the availability of specialty drinks containing organically certified ingredients. For the sake of descriptive accuracy, specialty drinks can be categorised according to their distinctive properties and their targeted market.

The first group are the manufactured drinks associated with therapeutic health benefits. The primary consumers of therapeutic drinks are health conscious individuals between thirty and fifty five years of age. When interviewed, the majority of consumers claim to select these products based on a combination of current scientific evidence, the recommendation of health professionals, and advertising claims. The most popular products are those containing antioxidant compounds and vitamins.

The next category includes electrolyte replacement and sports drinks. These are primarily aimed at the youthfully active, between fifteen and thirty years. Many of these products are marketed through elite and developing athlete sponsorship deals and the promotion of selected sporting events.

Recreational and caffeinated energy drinks constitute a third category. With the exception of some leading brands, these products tend to be narrowly profiled toward particular socio-cultural groups within the fifteen to forty year age bracket. For example, one product we investigated was exclusively restricted to hotels and nightclubs despite being a non-alcoholic beverage. A separate trio of high caffeine energy drinks was launched at a conference attended by recent law graduates.

The fourth category to be discussed here encompasses the juice drinks and cordials which are formulated to appeal to children between one and ten years of age. Many of these are associated with popular media, animated cartoon, and computer games imagery.

Health promotion

Organic drinks offering therapeutic health benefits are now widely available in whole food stores, supermarkets, gymnasiums, and health retreats. In many respects, their popularity is determined by the overall quality and acceptance of the wider range of manufactured products known as functional foods. This category emerged from Japan in the late eighties and was originally defined to identify processed foods which contain ingredients to enhance or protect specific bodily functions.

The current definition of functional food appears to have widened to include natural substances with the potential for widely distributed physiological benefits. Examples of these include products containing probiotics, green tea and olive leaf extracts, acai berries, and various herbal compounds like ginko, liquorice, and sarsparilla.

Drinks containing green tea extracts and acai berries have been promoted for their antioxidant properties and complex polyphenols which are believed to neutralise oxidated molecules which can progressively damage living tissue. Organic certification provides an assurance that these products contain ingredients derived from uncontaminated sources, with an emphasis upon maintaining the integrity of their natural therapeutic properties.

Sports drinks

The organically certified sports drinks are primarily designed for athletes and active individuals who need to replace fluids, glucose, and electrolytes, during, and after strenuous periods of exercise.

Consultant sports physiologist Kerrie Burt recommends drinking at least two glasses of plain water prior to exercising. “Drinks containing glucose and electrolyte will actually restrict the effective absorption of water during this time. They are more effective at delivering the mixture of fluids, glucose, and electrolyte required once the body is heated and actively engaged in physical activity. We now talk about cells in terms of their fluid storage capacity”, advises Ms Burt. “We’re looking for good supplies of intracellular fluid before an event. Once core temperature rises, the fluid gets released from the cells to enable evaporative cooling across the skin. At the same time muscles and organs have an increased demand for energy as well as the soluble minerals which regulate their increased metabolic functioning”.

She believes that sports drinks are more important than most people realise. “There have been some sarcastic comments about the sports drink industry, but you only hear praise from the coaches and athletes”, says Ms Burt. The science is very advanced and the organically certified products are right on the cutting edge.

Energy drinks

Organic energy drinks are a relatively new concept. Until recently most of these products were based on the conventional formula of carbonated water, sugar, caffeine, various flavourings and preservative. With the increased competition among established and emerging products, several manufacturers have focused on healthier organic products. These are often based on sophisticated yet natural juice flavours like cranberry, guarana, and lychee. They typically contain less added sugar and caffeine than regular energy drinks, although they may contain herbal supplements like ginko which is known to improve memory and concentration. The emerging markets for these products include China, and much of South East Asia.

Drinks for children

While addressing health concerns of parents and caregivers, organic products designed for children must also accommodate taste preferences which may not necessarily apply to adults. This is particularly true of the processed fruit juices and cordials which are often sweetened with sugar and other natural food additives.

When asked for their comments, individuals purchasing these products were somewhat ambivalent on the issue of sugar content. While there was widespread acknowledgement that excessive dietary sugar leads to problems with obesity and dental decay, there was also a belief that healthy kids tend to restrict their own sugar intake, providing they have access to a well balanced diet most of the time.

The adults interviewed were more concerned about the possibility of pesticide and other chemical compounds entering the food chain and affecting their child’s development. Children are more susceptible to a wide range of chemical pollutants and toxins due to the immaturity of their excretory organs and immune systems. Because they contain fruit concentrates sourced from local and overseas suppliers, many conventional juice products contain residual traces of organophosphate and carbamate compounds.

Organic juices and cordials are made from fruit which is raised naturally, without chemical interference. When you find organic varieties the kids enjoy, make use of them as a special treat in preference to conventional varieties. However, make sure your children are also drinking plenty of water and milk, preferably certified organic milk.

Organic tea

How easy is it for tea producers to deliver a high quality organic product to the consumer? As the fourth generation representative of Darjeeling’s tea dynasty, Rajah Banerjee is the prince of organic tea. Cradled in the lap of the Himalayas, Makaibari is the oldest single owner tea estate and one of the few devoted to organic and biodynamic agricultural methods. Rajah explains that the annual volume of organically grown tea is only six percent that of conventional. While demand for organically grown tea continues to increase, there are significant constraints upon growers who might like to enter this market.

Large producers in particular face significant challenges in adapting to a new set of agricultural parameters. The switch to holistic management requires considerable planning and time. By avoiding chemical fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides, organic growers must directly confront the challenge of developing approved alternatives. These include natural soil conditioners like manure, botanical insect repellents, alternate host species, and manual weeding. Understandably, many large producers are discouraged by the loss of income which is likely to occur during their transition to holistic agriculture.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, small scale organic tea producers seem to have an increasingly difficult time. This is largely on account of the manner in which tea is commercially distributed. In Rajah’s words, volume is the mantra. Specialty teas are often ignored by major distributors who demand standardised products which facilitate swift turnover and high volume sales.

About tea

The tea bush (Camellia sinesis) has been cultivated for thousands of years, originally in China where it became a staple beverage. Due to its popularity as a trading commodity, the cultural influence of tea spread outwards to encompass those regions presently known as Japan, Indonesia, Afghanistan, Turkey, and Russia. At the arrival of the eighteenth century, tea became an important beverage in England where it was consumed across all levels of society.

Chinese herbalists have long appreciated the health benefits of drinking tea, although much of this knowledge was inaccessible in the west. Today, there is a decent amount of mainstream research seeking to evaluate the beneficial properties of tea. Two of the questions most frequently raised in these studies include: Which variety of tea is most beneficial to human health? and Is organically grown tea superior to conventionally grown tea?

Black tea

Several varieties of tea are obtained from the Camellia sinesis bush. The most popular tea around the world is currently black tea. The flavoursome qualities of black tea are captured by a fermentation process which involves an initial steaming to release enzymes followed by high temperature drying. While fermentation enriches the taste, it also decreases some valuable polyphenols while increasing the caffeine and tannin content of the leaves.

A good quality black tea (preferably single leaf) is still considered a useful source of flavonoids and other antioxidant compounds. A regular dietary intake of these nutrients is required for building resistance against infection and many of the diseases which occur in later life.

There is considerable interest and support for research investigating the influence of tea consumption upon degenerative illnesses like arthritis, cancer, and coronary vascular disease. Black tea appears to provide some protection against coronary vascular disease. In a sample of elderly males in Holland, moderate tea consumption was associated with a lower incidence of mortality attributed to heart disease (Hertog, et al, 1993). Some of the lower priced black teas; particularly those used in teabags will be blended with Camellia assam leaves. To date, most of the scientific studies have focused on Camellia sinesis.

Green Tea

Green tea is traditionally preferred in several regions of Asia, notably Japan, where its complex health benefits have been extensively researched. Instead of being fermented, green tea is dried quickly to reduce oxidation. This results in a slightly astringent beverage. When brewed from high quality leaves, a serving of green tea ensures a bountiful harvest of highly desirable nutrients. These include antioxidant vitamins, beta carotene, zinc, and selenium, in addition to complex polyphenols and flavonoids.

From a holistic health perspective, green teas are classified along with other foods which regulate metabolism and alkalinise the body. Promoting an alkaline environment assists the efficiency of cellular metabolism and may decrease the likelihood of certain types of cancer. Scientists have now identified several polyphenol compounds which appear to have inhibitory effects upon the development and progression of cancerous cells.

For laboratory mice, a diet supplemented with green tea polyphenols resulted in a significantly lower incidence of skin cancer (Dreosti et al, 1997). The consumption of green tea was associated with decreased recurrences of breast cancer in Japanese women (Nakachi et al, 1998). Other potential health benefits of green tea include protection against cardiovascular disease, arthritis, and elevated blood pressure (Sueoka, et al, 2001).

Tea plantations

With approximately twenty thousand plants supported on each hectare of land, commercial tea production places high demands upon natural and human resources. The average annual yield is approximately two thousand kilograms of dried tea per hectare.

Like other intensively farmed crops, tea is routinely treated with a broad range of agricultural chemicals. Because their new growth is continually harvested, tea plants must obtain sufficient nitrogen from the soil. Most commercial growers depend on synthetic fertiliser to replace soil nitrogen. Organic farmers replace soil nitrogen with natural materials like green manure crops, seaweed, compost, and animal manures.

Not surprisingly, commercially cultivated tea is susceptible to damage caused by fungal infection, and several species of insect. Once again, the majority of tea plantations depend on chemical treatments which must be frequently applied, often in higher concentrations than those recommended. This impacts negatively upon the quality of life enjoyed by plantation workers and results in a product that is potentially dangerous to consumers.

Conventional tea producers operate within narrow margins and cannot routinely accommodate the shift to an organic approach since, in most cases, their yields would be significantly decreased. It has also been reported that workers employed to maintain and harvest tea bushes prefer conventional spraying, since this eliminates the natural prey of scorpions, spiders, and snakes. The chance of being bitten or killed by one of these creatures is apparently much greater on organic plantations. Conventional growers frequently promote these statistics to gain approval for their practices. Since many of these workers are children, it seems cynical to address short term safety without considering the longer term implications of repeated chemical exposure.

Health and wellbeing

For ensuring the health and wellbeing of those who consume dried tea, there is little doubt that organically certified products contain less chemical residue than conventionally grown alternatives. One of the difficulties with assessing pesticide levels in tea is the fact that each season will precipitate different approaches to crop management, depending on variable factors like climate, insect breeding cycles, and the market price for individual tea varieties. The majority of tea is sold in blended form, meaning that elevated pesticide levels can rarely be traced to a single source. As a consequence, many scientists and consumers are somewhat sceptical of the publicised laboratory analyses.

In addition to accumulating within the cells of each plant, agricultural chemicals have the potential to inhibit or weaken natural processes which create highly potent nutrients. The complex polyphonous and flavonoids within tea leaves are involved in complex functions like protection against predatory insect attack. When plants are artificially protected by synthetic chemicals, they gradually lose their natural ability to discourage insects. This is less of a problem with most species of culinary herb, which can be dried and blended to create healthy or medicinal beverages. When grown in appropriate locations, herbs are naturally resilient. Many of them grow in marginal soils and produce volatile compounds which discourage insect pests. This enables them to be grown organically, without chemicals.

Health conscious consumers have every reason to choose an organically certified product. Oakland based Numi Tea have developed a unique range of teas which meet strict organic standards. Company spokesperson Anna Hartman explains that most tea leaves are unwashed when they’re dried and processed. So the first time you steep your tea, you’re also infusing chemical residue from any pesticides previously used on the plants. Dedicated to quality, Numi Tea avoids the use of fragrant oils which can disrupt the subtle flavours of a genuine tea. Since their introductory launch of Dry Desert Lime, the company has proceeded to introduce many distinctive and exotic teas. These include Rooibos (red tea), Lemon Myrtle, Honeybush, and Berry Black.

Sourcing organic teas

Many informed consumers are attracted to the health giving properties of organically certified tea. Lisa Hilbert’s a Melbourne based naturopath specialising in Herbal Medicine. She’s also the founder and CEO of Tea Tonic, a company dedicated to developing teas with therapeutic properties. From her experience, Lisa knows that an appropriately selected tea will enhance and strengthen specific aspects of bodily function. For example, Tea Tonic’s Warm Spicey blend includes therapeutic herbs such as Clove, Anise, and Cinnamon. When taken regularly, this can assist general circulation and digestion.

In situations where it is difficult to obtain organically certified varieties of black or green tea, consumers may prefer to concentrate on herbal teas like peppermint, rosebud, or chrysanthemum. There are numerous varieties to choose from and regular consumption can provide nutritional benefits of similar magnitude to black or green tea.

One of the factors affecting local supplies of organically certified tea is its recent incorporation within a range of natural health products. Widespread awareness of beneficial compounds in green tea has encouraged enterprising manufacturers to develop its functional properties as the key ingredient within sports drinks, toothpaste, and premium cosmetic products. Health food manufacturers are increasingly interested in the antioxidant properties which preserve nutrients and discourage rancidity of natural oils. There is little doubt; the future of organic tea appears very promising.

The perfect cup of coffee

Many of us find it difficult to contemplate functioning without our morning coffee. Let’s face it, caffeine stimulates the brain and provides the energy boost we need. Depending on circumstances and routine, that first cup is probably followed by several others, distributed strategically throughout the day. In Continental Europe, freshly brewed coffee has been iconically popular since the beginning of the twentieth century. Try to imagine Paris without its coffee. It’s almost unthinkable!

Shortly after the Second World War, the art of coffee making declined in many countries beyond the immediate influence of Continental Europe. This was primarily associated with the advent of instant blends which were economical and convenient.

In a return to tradition, dedicated coffee drinkers have largely discarded freeze-dried and instant blends, and once again demonstrate a significant preference for freshly brewed and carefully selected beans. Commencing with the distribution of new varieties in the late eighties, brewed coffee experienced a prolonged wave of consumer popularity which strengthened during the nineties, and continues to this day. Part of the trend is attributed to the arrival of coffee house chains which rely on clever marketing and brand promotion. Beneath the facade of sophisticated imagery there are some fundamental issues which should be relevant to ethical and health conscious consumers.

Coffee is indigenous to the mountainous regions of Central Africa where it grows interspersed among a variety of other plant species beneath the rainforest canopy. Today coffee is commercially grown in the plantations of Africa, Indonesia, Vietnam, South and Central America. Influenced by the economic and social conditions of each region, coffee plantations operate according to either the traditional and sustainable approach or an intensive agricultural model which aims for a higher output with less sustainability.

Within the traditional and sustainable approach, there is an option for some producers to grow their beans organically, under certification. Like other examples of organic farming, this involves a code of practices designed to eliminate harmful chemicals, the inefficient use of resources, and environmental degradation. In some cases there are additional conditions which aim to protect growers and their families from exploitation. To qualify as a certified organic product, the raw beans must be extracted, processed, and roasted without chemical additives.

Intensive coffee production

The intensive model of production frequently depends on clearing natural forests to establish a uniform monoculture of coffee trees. With no canopy or competing species, trees mature early and can be tightly packed in orderly rows. The soil is treated with herbicide to destroy weeds, synthetic fertiliser to accelerate growth, and other chemicals to deter insect pests and prevent disease. Conventionally grown coffee is a highly toxic crop, with subsistence farmers frequently forced to employ outdated agricultural chemicals, banned elsewhere for safety reasons. In the past, unscrupulous importers have tried to excuse this with suggestions that pesticide residue is removed once the beans are roasted. Even if this were true, issues of toxicity must be considered in broader terms than their effects upon the consumer. Many of these practices have irreversible impacts on natural rainforest ecosystems.

Clear felling of rainforest for plantation removes soil nutrients and biodiversity. Because tropical environments encourage rapid recycling of soil nutrients, a high percentage of agricultural chemicals will always be stored within the plants and animals of the forest. Beneath surface layers of humus, many tropical soils are relatively deficient in their nutrient profile. Once the forest is cleared, the stored soil nutrients disappear, and longer-term problems like soil erosion, and groundwater evaporation are initiated. The combination of nutrient poor soils and the unnatural growth of single species in concentrated areas inevitably results in a dependent cycle of agricultural chemical use.

In the short term, this intensive model produces higher yields which usually guarantee cheap and abundant supplies for coffee drinkers in affluent countries.

Sustainable coffee production

Traditional methods for growing coffee involve interplanting among a range of species which preserve some of the natural characteristics of the original rainforest habitat. A desire to preserve and maintain rainforest habitats underlies eco-labelling strategies which attempt to identify and popularise coffee grown in a sustainable manner.

The widespread acceptance of the Shade Grown label was initially encouraged by well-publicised surveys reporting decreases in migratory bird populations. Critics of eco-labelling question the intrinsic value of focusing on singular habitat issues without fully addressing the underlying social and economic factors which determine the nature of coffee production.

Organic methods of coffee production are labour intensive and cannot always provide impoverished farmers with adequate income to survive. The outcomes for organic farming usually depend on the stability of local economies and factors relating to social cohesion. Mexico is one of the world’s largest exporters of organically certified coffee. In their recent study, Bray, Sanchez, and Murphy (2001), evaluated the importance of strong social networks which enabled peasant farmers of La Selva to develop co-operatives which were effective in developing the infrastructure required to enter the competitive commercial market for organic produce. Their self organisation resulted in better prices for their coffee, improved access to training, and additional resources like health programs established within the communities. These benefits are often reported for coffee growers protected under the Fair Trade cooperative.

Addressing long-term inequality

As an internationally recognised non profit organisation, Fair Trade provides support to more than half a million coffee growers by attempting to establish transparent procedures in commodity pricing. Under the Fair Trade umbrella organic growers receive a premium for their produce, and in some locations growers receive assistance with environmental, community, and farm management problems.

Those initiatives seeking to promote ecological sustainability and improved conditions for coffee growers are attempting to correct long-term inequities in international trade. In terms of the total volume of coffee produced each year, Fair Trade accounts for a tiny percentage, as does Shade Grown, and Organically Certified. One of the truths which cannot be avoided is that wholesale prices for coffee are set too low. This is largely due to intensive production techniques which inevitably flood international markets with vast quantities of poor quality coffee. Bearing this in mind, reasonable and fair-minded consumers should not resent paying a few dollars extra for higher quality coffee meeting the criteria established for Organic Certification, Fair Trade, and Shade Grown initiatives.

Organic beer

According to longstanding tradition, beer is made from four natural ingredients. These are pure water, barley malt, hops, and yeast. In Germany, the standard is upheld through the purity law (Reinheitsgebot), which prevents brewers using additional or alternative ingredients in any product marketed as a beer. Outside Germany, there are plenty of beers containing mixed cereals, added sugar, flavouring compounds, and chemicals to increase storage capacity, creaminess, and clarity.

Making organic beer

Organic beer is made in the traditional manner, with pure, healthy ingredients. No chemical additives or genetically modified substances are used and the production facilities are routinely inspected to ensure compliance with organic certification requirements. Several decades ago, organic beer was marginalised and restricted to a small number of boutique breweries. Those brewers dedicated to organic production were frequently discouraged by the scarcity and poor quality of the ingredients offered to them.

Despite improved farming techniques and increased supplies, there remains an international shortage of premium organic ingredients. This can be attributed to the rapid expansion of consumer and market demand for organic beer, a trend which has encouraged several of the world’s major brewers to develop their own products. In choosing to purchase organic as opposed to conventional beer, most consumers are influenced by the environmental benefits of a sustainable agriculture in addition to the superior quality and taste of these products.

Raw materials

Like most manufactured beverages, the quality of beer is dependent on the integrity of raw ingredients and the production procedures employed. The process commences with whole grain barley which is converted to the malt used for brewing beer. Barley was one of the first grains to be cultivated and was the predominant food grain in medieval Europe until progressively replaced by its close relative, wheat, during the sixteenth century. Baere was its archaic English name, indicating the likely derivation for the word beer. Today, barley is still grown in significant volumes primarily as stock feed but also for use in wholegrain breads, as a table grain, and for beer and whiskey manufacturing.

The preferred varieties of barley are grown for their distinctive flavour characteristics. From the brewer’s perspective, an essential quality of barley grains is their ability to transform complex starches into malt sugars during germination. Damage caused by insect or disease infestation has the potential to interfere with germination, making the grains unsuitable for further processing. This partly explains why some brewers prefer to rely on conventionally grown barley which is routinely fumigated with insecticidal treatments. Another reason is the plentiful supply and lower cost of conventionally grown barley. One of the disadvantages of conventional barley can be elevated nitrogen levels caused by the application of chemical fertilisers. When the nitrogen content of barley is too high, the character of the finished beer is often compromised by a cloudy haze and lifeless palate.

The process

To encourage germination, barley grains are soaked in running water until softened then laid out and carefully raked every few hours for several days. Conventional maltsters may add alkaline chemicals like hydrogen peroxide to increase the germination rate.

When the grains are sufficiently germinated, they are roasted in kilns. The roasting temperature and kiln process will determine the characteristics of the malt. Roasted at high temperatures, the dark malts provide rich colour and flavours, particularly for the darker ales, and stouts. For most beer varieties it is the pale malts which are required in large volumes. Roasted at lower temperatures, pale malts contain higher percentages of the natural enzymes which enable the remaining starch to be converted into maltose, a highly fermentable type of sugar.

Once the malt has been milled, it is blended with hot water to create a porridge like mash. While traditional brewers depend upon natural enzymes in the malt, commercial products are often enhanced by the addition of yeast strains which increase conversion of starch to sugars. Among conventional brewing interests, there has been controversy surrounding the use of genetically modified strains. Beers with an organic certification are not permitted to use genetically modified strains of yeast.

When the starches are sufficiently converted, the malt is filtered to remove solid particles, which can be dried and sold as an ingredient for stock food. The sugary liquid remaining is called wort. This is then heated in a brewing vat along with hops, which are required for their distinctive bitterness and aromatic complexity.

Hops

The strength and flavour of hops are most influential in traditional brewing and largely determine the quality of the finished beer. Many varieties are susceptible to insect attack, mildew and fungal problems. This makes them challenging to grow without chemicals. Conventional growers routinely spray their plants with organo-phosphate pesticides, chemical fungicides, and their soils are likely to be exposed to nitrate fertiliser and weedkiller.

Rather than applying these chemicals, organic growers attempt to control problems with a combination of low impact strategies. These can include companion plantings, routine inspections, physical maintenance, and the use of safe materials such as soapy water, and white oil. The best protection against nuisance insects is to select an unaffected growing region. The relative isolation of New Zealand, for example, has prevented hop aphids from establishing and compromising the local hops industry.

Despite the enthusiasm and dedication of organic producers, they are overshadowed by the conventional industry and frequently struggle to maintain their economic viability. When attempting to obtain organically grown hops for their products, organic brewers are frequently disappointed by inconsistent supplies, and the small number of varieties available to them. The finest organic hops are currently grown in New Zealand, Germany, and Belgium.

After cooling, the hopped wort is fermented with the assistance of active yeast strains. On average, it takes around one week to convert most of the malt sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The remaining sugars provide roundness and clarity to the beer. Some beers are conditioned with a charcoal filter to remove impurities. Commercial beers are usually pasteurised before being bottled or sealed inside barrel kegs.

Boutique products brewed for the connoisseur may be packaged with additional hops, sugar, and active yeast. This enables continued fermentation and increases the beers flavour and alcohol content. All of these processes are compatible with an organic approach to brewing. Next time you enjoy a refreshing glass of beer, reflect upon the importance of supporting a healthy, sustainable industry. Cheers.

Organic wine, tradition and regional character

A carefully selected wine has the potential to complement fine food and good company. In addition to offering enjoyment and pleasure, the moderate intake of wine has the potential to improve important aspects of physical health. Since the eighties, numerous studies have confirmed the health benefits of moderate wine consumption. Dry red wine, in particular, contains high concentrations of phenolic and other antioxidant compounds which are associated with a lowered incidence of coronary vascular disease.

These findings, along with various social and economic influences, contributed to the rise of the mass produced wine. Often sold in cardboard cask or flagons, their quality was often compromised by mechanised harvesting and the routine application of chemicals during cultivation and processing.

The steady sales growth of organically produced wine appears to highlight a change in consumer taste and purchasing behaviours. While the top end of the market has always focused on limited production vintages with distinctive characteristics, the middle range has now followed with its rejection of mass-produced wines of average or lower quality. According to surveys conducted by an independent liquor traders union, the majority of consumers now prefer to spend a little extra to obtain something distinctive.

The organic approach

The organic approach encourages the grower and winemaker to obtain the best quality without relying on chemicals or technical shortcuts. In many respects, organic winemaking represents a return to the traditional approaches which once facilitated wines of great distinction.

One of the fundamental requirements for producing distinctive organic wine is the ability to match the unique characteristics of each growing region with the most suitable varieties of grape.

In general, it is easier to grow quality grapes without chemicals in warm and reasonably dry climates. These conditions offer some natural protection against the problematic moulds and other diseases which tend to infect vines growing in damp or humid climates. Further protection may be secured by choosing a physical site with optimum sunlight and air circulation.

The ideal soil is sufficiently deep with medium fertility and excellent drainage characteristics. Deep soils encourage strong root growth which enables the vines to flourish with minimal rainfall. Experienced growers ensure their vines receive only enough water to survive. Any additional watering may contribute to disease or accelerate the growth of vines. Choosing soils with medium fertility also restricts any tendency for excessive vine growth and the production of large grapes. Excessive vine growth is a waste of resources and may contribute to undesirable elevations of humidity.

The ideal situation is to concentrate all of the vines energy into the production of smaller sized grapes. Since much of a wines distinctive flavour is derived from the grape’s outer skin, smaller ones are generally preferred for their higher ratio of skin to juice. One consequence of smaller grapes is their lower yield. This effectively increases the cost of production per volume unit, accounting for some of the price difference between high quality and average wine.

The conventional approach

Most conventional wine production is now reliant on a significant number of agricultural and other chemical substances. Contrary to misinformed reports, many vines are repeatedly treated with applications of pesticide and fungicide. Weeds are routinely sprayed with herbicide to prevent them interfering with the vines. Over time, these practices will destroy microbial organisms, resulting in a progressive degradation of the soils natural ability to support healthy plant growth.

Once the soil is weakened in this manner, vines may require chemical fertilisers to keep them alive. Conventional vineyards seeking organic certification are usually subjected to a three year conversion period to ensure their practices comply with the specified standards. During this time soils are tested for natural fertility and residual pesticides. Unfortunately, many of the older types of organo-chloride pesticide have the nasty habit of breaking down so slowly that their residual components remain trapped in the soil and food chain for many years.

Sulphites

When grapes are grown naturally, in healthy soils, there is plenty of incentive to avoid unnecessary additives during the winemaking process. One class of additive which continues to generate controversy within the organic wine industry are the sulphite compounds.

Like other natural foods, stored wine can be attacked by oxygen, and bacteria. In serious cases, this will initiate unwanted oxidation and fermentation, resulting in a spoiled product. To prevent costly losses, most contemporary winemakers treat their wine and equipment with sulphite preservatives. The most widely used substance is sulphur dioxide which can be extracted as a by-product of petroleum processing. Natural sulphites can also be isolated from mined sulphur. In France fluidsouftre are permitted additives in organic wine, providing their concentrations are maintained within the (low) maximum limits.

The fact that low levels of sulphite compounds are created naturally during the fermentation process has occasionally been used to legitimise the use of sulphite additives by winemakers. There is also the argument that sulphites are added to most wines, including those of distinction, to ensure their stability over time. Whatever point of view is accepted, there is little doubt that excessive sulphites will ruin a wine with their slightly bitter taste. They can also cause headaches and respiratory problems in susceptible individuals.

As history demonstrates, it is possible to create most varieties of wine without the addition of sulphite preservatives. This largely depends on how carefully the grapes and wine are handled and stored during all phases of the winemaking process.

Terroir and organic wine making

In France, the term terroir is closely associated with the creation of distinctive wine. Terroir is sometimes translated as the sum of environmental inputs which contribute to the unique characteristics of a wine. These include the region, its climate, soil quality, and natural ecosystems, in participation with the agricultural and technical inputs which support the vines and enable the grapes to be crafted into wine.

While many of us are captivated by stereotypical images of easily gained abundance, the reality for organic growers is usually hard won gains achieved through effective planning and old-fashioned effort. By encouraging biodiversity within their vineyards, organic growers reduce the impact of many insect pests and diseases which might otherwise threaten the vines. For example, instead of spraying herbicide to control weeds, organic growers might select cover crops such as clover or rye grass. These provide habitat for the predatory or beneficial insects which limit populations of destructive ones.

Rather than fortifying weakened soils with externally sourced chemicals, organic growers develop natural methods for protecting and sustaining the structure and ecology of their vineyard soils. This involves the use of cover crops to prevent erosion and the recycling of prunings and pressed grape pulp as valuable composting ingredients.

An emphasis on natural recycling might be one of the best ways to ensure that the vineyard’s terroir is adequately reflected in the finished product. Visualise a funnel which concentrates the diverse components of a pollution free environment. Some traditional winemakers like to treat the vineyard as a closed system. This is often revealed through the choice of yeasts employed to ferment the grapes. In well established locations, a vineyard may contain sufficient concentrations of wild yeast to facilitate the process. Wild yeast populations typically require years to develop so are rarely an option for recently established vineyards.

Organic certification

There are certainly a significant number of winemakers who craft their products according to sustainable organic principles, yet choose not to advertise this fact. When organic wine was first introduced, there was resistance from traditionalists who viewed certification and labelling as a marketing gimmick. Throughout the previous decade, participants within the organic wine industry have demonstrated integrity and delivered quality products to the extent that the earlier reservations are rarely encountered.

Many winemakers consider protection of the environment and avoidance of harmful additives to be a vital component of their tradition and lifestyle. Since the ability to achieve refined quality over many years is hard won, it is not surprising that some experienced winemakers remain resistant to the externally applied standards of organic certification bodies. Occasionally there may be disagreements over the interpretation or application of some organic principle. In other examples, the vineyard or its output may be too small to justify the additional expense and paperwork associated with organic certification. As a consequence, the wine must be sold without an organic label. This limits participation and ultimately weakens the organic wine industry. For this reason there is genuine need for constructive exchange and cooperation between winemakers of integrity and the organic certification bodies. A failure to confirm organic status to technically qualified winemakers can only disadvantage the vineyard’s reputation and ultimately consumer commitment to the product.

Many individuals now depend upon organic labelling to help them differentiate safe products from those which possibly contain pesticide residue and other chemical contaminants.