Every parent knows that children are susceptible to the sophisticated marketing strategies employed by manufacturers of processed food products. It’s not surprising when basic lines like breakfast cereal, cookies, drinks, and chips are linked to popular media characters like Spiderman, Dr Who, and Barbie. What many parents fail to realise is the extent to which some of these foods can be saturated with suspect chemical additives.

Chemical additives in food have been linked to a number of medical and psychological conditions which can affect childhood well-being and development. These include common and rare allergies, hyperactivity disorder, and appetite disturbances. Because they cannot be used by the body for normal growth and repair, most chemical additives need to be processed and eliminated. This represents an inefficient utilisation of resources.

One of the real difficulties confronting parents and caregivers is the complexity of the coded labelling system for common food additives. In the middle of a busy supermarket aisle with various distractions, how many consumers can readily identify the significance of E102, E104, or E129? Excepting those with heightened levels of interest or a food science qualification, many of us will fail to properly decipher the labels.

A helpful website is currently available to anyone seeking to identify those foods, drinks, and medications which contain the chemical additives linked to the developmental and health issues described above. Action on Additives was established by Lizzie Vann, the founder of a company promoting organic baby food. The website also encourages consumers to report products which are marketed to children yet contain suspect food additives.

Next time you feel as though you’re tied to your current job and in need of a break, spare a thought for your local organic dairy farmer. Organic dairy farming is a year-round undertaking that requires real dedication. While many of us are aware of the benefits of consuming organic dairy products and even the research confirming these benefits, unless you hail from a dairy farm, you may not appreciate the extent of the commitment required to deliver high quality organic dairy products.

In a wonderful two-part short film entitled Organic Dairyman: A Family Tradition, Cooking Up a Story – a site dedicated to breathing life into authentic stories about food – provides us with an insight into the life of Jon Bansen, an organic dairy farmer.

Interestingly, it all starts with the happiness of the cows. By ensuring their needs are met, the cows are capable of producing high quality milk. It’s simple and it makes a lot of sense. And as Jon points out in the film, his grandfather was - albeit unknowingly - an organic farmer too. It’s only in recent times that we’ve grown accustomed to the idea that our farms require chemical inputs to drive efficiency gains.

It makes me happy to know that there are people like Jon Bansen involved in farming today. Organic dairy farmers like Jon are responsible for keeping alive the traditions of previous generations and delivering us with food the way it should be produced.

If you enjoyed this short film as much as I did, I strongly encourage you to visit Cooking Up a Story, where you’ll find more high quality short films looking at food - its origins and the people who bring it to us.

Organic agriculture is widely criticised by economists and practical scientists who favour conventional models of food production. Recurrent claims insist that organic farming methods do not produce the quantities of food required to feed a global population. This is certainly the case at present, however the land and environmental resources devoted to organic production remain a small fraction of the overall agricultural distribution. Given this lack of equal comparison, is it reasonable for supporters of organic agriculture to continuously defend the suitability of their methods? I believe so, providing there is some genuine effort to address specific criticisms with tabulated data from well-documented studies.

This has been the approach taken by a team from the University of Michigan (Badgley et al, 2007). By compiling research gathered from 293 independent comparisons, their study was designed to quantitatively evaluate the relative efficiency of the two agricultural systems. A summary of their findings offers valid defence against two of the primary objections to organic farming.

First and foremost, their study revealed the potential for increased yields with organic agriculture. The breakdown of individual energy estimates for current production systems is cited as 2786 calories per person per day. This compares with an organic production estimate between 2641 and 4381 calories per person per day. The difference is generated by the fact that effective organic systems almost double the agricultural output for producers in developing countries. While this type of result is easily lost amidst the complex economic challenges confronting all third world producers, it is worth our effort to seek out the most likely causes. The authors of this study offer relatively simple explanations. For example, the basic resources required for organic production methods are more likely to be accessible to farmers in developing countries. There are also practical and cultural factors which enable small-scale organic farms to be more efficient and productive than similar operations in developed regions.

Proponents of conventional agriculture will often question the sufficient availability of nitrogen and other nutrient sources for highly productive farms in developing regions. The authors of this study calculated the average amounts of nitrogen available to organic production when the local growing seasons were interspersed by the laying of green manure crops. It was discovered that this basic practice ensured sufficient nitrogen without the additional need for synthetic or chemical based fertilizers.

The major weakness associated with organic agriculture in developing regions is not therefore attributed to the overall volume of food production or the absence of sustainable fertility in relation to soil nutrients. It is posited as the lack of economic and regional infrastructure required to effectively distribute even the most locally available food resources.

Reference: Badgley et al “Organic Agriculture and the Global Food Supply” Renewable Horticulture and Food Systems (Vol 22: 86-100, 2007)

One of the most important jobs performed by any competent chef begins well before they enter the kitchen. Being able to identify and source the freshest, highest quality produce is arguably the most important skill a well-trained chef has. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that it is the one skill that differentiates a great chef from a merely competent chef. When I’m looking to bring a new trainee into the restaurant, I’m more interested in their ability to identify and select great produce than I am, at least initially, in their ability to cook. I can teach them to cook. And to a certain extent I can provide instruction on selecting great produce. But I honestly believe that the best chefs have additional sensory capacity and powers of observation that are beyond the reach of most people. And that’s what enables great chefs to source the best produce.

Even though I’ve just indicated that selecting amazing organic produce is something of an art that only the best chefs are capable of, fear not. There is also a fair bit of basic science involved. And fortunately, that can be taught, learned and applied. Let’s look at some of the principles that you should use when sourcing organic produce.

Always choose seasonal produce - there’s no point in buying organic strawberries that have travelled huge distances to get to you when organic berries are currently in season and are grown locally. It’s simple. Buy the organic berries. They’ll taste better, contain more vitamins and arrive on your plate in a fresher state. And chances are, the organic berries will be relatively less expensive than the strawberries, which is good news if you’re managing a household budget. Before going shopping, take the time to understand the types of produce that are in season in your region. Be careful though. Many people mistakenly assume that what’s on sale at their local chain store supermarket is also what’s in season. This isn’t always the case. Supermarket distribution chains permit bulk items to be shipped to counter-seasonal destinations with relative ease these days. So, ask around. Talk to your local organic green grocer. They’ll know exactly what’s in season in your locale.

See it - fresh produce has an appearance that immediately identifies it as such. This applies as much to organic produce as it does to industrially farmed produce. And that isn’t to say that organic produce should exhibit the uniform shape, color and texture of the artificially enhanced, chemically produced, industrial farmed versions that are routinely available. But it should still look fresh and magnificent. In fact, it should jump out at you and demand attention.

Color is an amazing thing. To the trained eye, subtle differences in color enable identification of optimal provide a strong signal as to the likely quality of any given item of produce. For example, I know the color I expect to see in asparagus when it’s absolutely perfect for a light steaming. You will too.

Touch it - Feel food. Touch it. By all means be careful not to bruise or damage it, but for gods-sake don’t be afraid of picking it up either. Make sure you know what you’re buying before you walk out the door. Too many people are reluctant to pick up a peach or a plum these days for fear of some over-zealous storekeeper berating them for doing so. Bugger them! Tell any grumpy storekeeper that won’t let you handle their produce that I sent you; and that last time we checked it wasn’t an offence to pick up an apple to determine whether or not it’s ripe. In all honesty, if you’re shopping at a store that doesn’t allow you to handle their produce, shop elsewhere.

Fortunately most organic retailers tend to permit, and even encourage, shoppers who wish to feel their produce before purchasing it. It’s no coincidence that organic food tends to be stronger, firmer and retains its appearance longer than industrially farmed produce.

Fresh food has a feel and a texture that is different to food that is not. If you’re someone who hasn’t taken the time to pick up produce in the past, it’s worthwhile spending some time before your next shopping expedition finding out what texture the produce you’re purchasing should have. Admittedly, this is best done in the company of someone who knows how the produce should feel. But if you don’t have access to someone with this knowledge, at least read about how the produce should feel. In time, and with practice, you’ll come to understand the feel and texture you should be looking for in any particular item of produce.

Smell it - ripe produce has a different smell than produce that is past its best. It also has a different smell from produce that is juvenile and not ready for consumption. So don’t fear performing a little sniff and whiff test.

Taste it - I know that when you’re buying produce in small quantities for home use, it’s not always possible to try before you buy. But when a shopkeeper provides sample produce for tasting, it’s a pretty good indication that they’re confident of its quality. In fact, I can’t recall an instance of a storekeeper or marketeer offering me a sample of their produce without it being absolutely fresh and spot on. After all, you’re unlikely to purchase any produce from them if the sample they provide is lousy. So, if sample produce is offered, try it.

It’s also a good idea to frequent your local produce markets. Markets are competitive places. Every marketeer knows that the best way to secure a sale is to let people try their produce. If it tastes great, most people will buy what they’ve sampled. Markets are a good place to learn. They provide a great opportunity to ask questions of people close to the source of the food you and your family will eat.

There you go - always choose seasonal produce. And make sure that before purchasing any produce you see it, touch it, smell it and taste it. These aren’t exactly revolutionary concepts. But they are the basic principles for identifying and sourcing the finest quality organic ingredients. If you start with the freshest, locally sourced organic produce, you’re well on your way to creating fantastic food that will delight and inspire your family and friends.

There’s a lot that’s been written about why we should – and for that matter why we shouldn’t – be eating organic food these days. I don’t intend to go into a monologue covering off on every one of these arguments. Instead, I thought it might be worthwhile taking a quick look at some of the chemicals that can find their way into our food chain. But first, let’s consider why they’re there in the first place.

Fertilizers and pesticides are the two main sources of introduced chemicals into our food chain. Fertilizers are intended to increase plant foliage and generally to make plants appear larger and more healthy. Research has found that synthetic fertilizers lower the nutritional content of fruits and vegetables and also have the potential to reduce human reproductive capabilities.

Pesticides are designed to control and kill unwanted organisms. A wide range of pesticides exists. The more commonly known pesticides include:

Pesticides of concern due to their toxicity and the environmental hazard they pose include:

Organophosphates – a family of highly toxic pesticides that work by killing the brains and nervous systems of insects. Organophosphates are still widely used and have been found in disturbingly high quantities on many fruits and vegetables. Research has found that these chemicals can also harm the brains and nervous systems of human beings.

Dieldrin - an organochlorine insecticide which, although now banned in the United States, is highly persistent and still present in many soils. It was introduced to control insects in cotton, corn and citrus crops, and also to limit the spread of diseases carried by insects, such as mosquitoes and tsetse flies. Classified as a persistent organic pollutant (POP), it has the capacity to remain in the environment and in human body fat for long periods of time.

Lindane – a broad spectrum organochlorine insecticide that kills insects by stimulating their central nervous systems causing trembling, hyperexcitation, loss of coordination, paralysis, and eventually death. Although banned from use in agriculture in the United States, it is still used in many pharmaceutical products, for example in shampoo formulations designed to treat head lice in children. It is persistent in the environment, tends to bio-accumulate along food chains and has been linked with breast cancer and Aplastic anaemia. A campaign aimed at removing lindane from pharmaceutical products, which you can get involved with, is currently being waged by the Pesticide Action Network of North America.

Methomyl - a broad-spectrum insecticide from the carbamate group used to control insects in a wide range of crops. As a carbamate, it works by inhibiting cholinesterase, an essential enzyme for proper functioning of the nervous system. This acutely toxic insecticide is found in many fruits and vegetables. It is also a suspected endocrine disruptor and a potential groundwater contaminant,

Maleic Hydrazide – a herbicide used to prevent crops such as onions and potatoes from sprouting. It contains small quantities of hydrazine, a known toxin, which has the potential to leak into water reservoirs.

It’s important to remember that as time passes new knowledge comes to hand. Many chemicals that were once considered acceptable for use within the food chain are now specifically banned. Unfortunately, many of these are not banned until such time a positive correlation exists between the specific chemical in question and an adverse human health impact.

And although many of the more toxic chemicals have, due to our more enlightened frame of reference, been banned in much of the developed world, increasingly we’re sourcing our food from a range of countries that do not necessarily practice the same standards required of farmers in developed nations. Not all of these countries have phased out the use of chemicals many of which are now known to be carcinogenic and are banned in developed nations.

Is organic food entirely free from chemical additives? Well, it certainly aims to be. But, it’s important to realize that organic agriculture is a system. While no system is infallible, organic farming practices specifically precludes use of the pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, fumigants and defoliants routinely used on conventional farms. And that’s a pretty good starting position.

I’ll leave you with something I’ve always found fascinating. And that is, while it isn’t that difficult to find people advocating the use of fertilizers and pesticides to facilitate industrial agricultural pursuits - and even research concluding that agricultural chemicals don’t pose any risk to human health - you won’t find too many people (and certainly no research) claiming that these chemicals are good for your health. So, I for one will stick with the organic approach. It’s simple and it’s uncomplicated. And I think that’s just the way nature intended it to be.

References
Moses, Marion, Pesticides and breast cancer, Pesticides News 22, December 1993, 3-5
International Programme on Chemical Safety, Environmental health criteria 124, Lindane, World Health Organization, Geneva, 1991.
Gosselin, R. E., et al. 1984. Clinical toxicology of commercial products. Fifth edition. Baltimore, MD: Williams and Wilkins.
Dickens, F. , and Jones, H. E. H. , Brit. J. Cancer, 19, 392 (1965).
Davies, D.R., Organophosphates, affective disorders and suicide, Journal of Nutritional & Environmental Medicine, 1995, 5:367-374.
Parron, T., et. al., Increased risk of suicide with exposure to pesticides in an intensive agricultural area: A 12-year retrospective study. Forensic Science International, 1996, 79:53-63.
Pesticides News No 31, March 1996, p11.