Posted by Alex Johnson on December 7, 20073 CommentsPrinter Friendly

Organic turkey in high demand

Many consumers are choosing to put an organic turkey on their tables this festive season. There are some good reasons for them choosing to do so. For a start, organic turkeys are raised more humanely than their conventionally reared cousins. Instead of being force fed in cramped conditions utilising an intricate system of tubes and intravenous delivery mechanisms to provide sustenance, organically certified birds have access to open spaces. This enables organic birds to forage for natural sources of food such as worms, bugs and insects.

When organic turkeys are fed grain to supplement their natural diet, the grain itself must be from certified organic sources. In contrast, conventional turkeys are fed conventional grain. Conventional grain, which tends to be cheaper than organically certified grain, is sprayed with industrial agricultural chemicals (pesticides, herbicides and fungicides) and grown in soil requiring significant quantities of synthetic chemicals (chemical fertilizers). Many pesticides in particular, once consumed, are stored in mammalian muscle, fat, and organ tissue. Consuming conventionally reared protein sources provides our bodies with a concentrated intake of industrial agricultural chemicals.

Because conventionally reared birds live in cramped conditions, disease outbreaks tend to spread fast among the immunosuppressed birds. To arrest disease before it takes hold, antibiotics are routinely administered to conventional turkeys. In contrast, organic birds must not be given preventative antibiotic treatments. Fortunately, due to their superior diet and the natural conditions the birds enjoy, organic turkeys tend to be less stressed, better nourished, and relatively disease free. Consequently, there is no need for organic farmers to constantly rely upon preventative antibiotic treatments. The increased prevalence of preventative antibiotics in our food chain is sought by many medical professionals to be responsible for a rise in both the quantum and severity of antibiotic resistant outbreaks within our hospitals in recent years. 

While it’s great to see consumers getting behind the dedicated - generally small scale - farmers responsible for bringing organic turkeys to our tables at this time of year, the bird flu crisis, which appears to be worsening in the UK, has taken its toll on organic farmers in East Anglia. The Daily Mirror reports that Waitrose, a major UK department store, will be left without any organic turkeys this year. Apparently, Waitrose’s supply of organic turkey was to be sourced exclusively from East Anglia. Although reports indicate that other major retailers shouldn’t be impacted, it might pay to pick up that organic turkey soon.

Speaking of picking up an organic turkey, you might like to consider sourcing your turkey from one of the following:

Australia: Sunforest Organic Farm

Canada: Organa Farms

England: Woodlands Organic Farm

Ireland: James Whelan Butchers

Scotland: Jamesfield Farms

United States: Diestel Turkey Ranch

Wales: S & J Organics

Posted by D Bailey on December 6, 20071 CommentPrinter Friendly

Nurturing organic vines

The winemakers’ craft begins long before the annual harvest, when important decisions are made regarding the cultivation principles and ongoing management of carefully selected vines. Understandably, the organic approach specifies the importance of balancing each viticultural endeavour within the wider context of the surrounding ecosystem. A well managed organic vineyard should provide insight for individuals keen on recycling and avoiding the wasted resources which tend to accumulate in other agricultural enterprises.

Since the widespread acceptance of mass-produced wines, there have been fewer opportunities to appreciate the individual components which contribute to regional character, complexity, and coarseness, on many occasions. It is sometimes noted that brilliant wine requires the risk of creating exceptionally poor wine. Others commentators have rephrased such paradoxical insight by suggesting that fruit picked from poor quality vines can only be transformed into excellent wine through concentrating rather than attempting to disguise the perceived shortcomings.

Rather than promoting unified blandness, each component is valued for the strength or character of its expression. By measure of combined volume, grape pulp is the major constituent of any wine. The pulp comprises of water, sugar, fruit acids, and various aromatic compounds. From the organic perspective, minor constituents provide the greater opportunity to promote distinction among separate vines and locations within a region. The skin of each berry provides colour, tannins, and flavonol compounds while the waxy outer layers contain the natural yeasts which contribute to fermentation. Pips and stalks contain bitter tannins and complex aromatic compounds which may lift or complement the soft finish of an aged wine.

Nurturing is best applied with careful water restrictions in place. Most European varieties prefer relatively dry climate and can be raised without the application of chemical fungicides. Some growers choose to prioritise the overall volume of their harvest by encouraging larger berries. Others continue to seek a smaller, compact fruit, thereby allowing greater expression from the skin and stalks, as opposed to the pulp. 

Category: Just Food

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Posted by Alex Johnson on December 1, 20078 CommentsPrinter Friendly

In search of organic noodles

Noodles are the fast food of Asia. They’re inexpensive, taste great and come in varieties too numerous to mention. In fact, the number of countries that have adopted them as an important, and in some cases defining, part of their national cuisine is astounding. And, unlike most Western fast food options - which tend to be overburdened with saturated fat, salt and sugar – noodles, when thoughtfully prepared, have the capacity to be used as the foundation for many nutritionally balanced meals. With a young family, that’s an important consideration for me. So, it’s with some considerable interest that I’ve noted the rise of some outstanding noodle options available for today’s organic consumer.

Before going further, I have to confess to being a huge noodle fan. When I was young, Danny Yee’s mother used to make some of the best homemade noodle and wonton soup you could ever wish to taste. Mrs Yee, a kind woman who looked after my two brothers and me while our dad worked night shifts, would often prepare for all of us a bowl of piping hot noodle and wonton soup. I’ve been hooked ever since.

From those early noodle experiences, my tastes have broadened. I’ve ventured beyond some of the more traditional Chinese noodle dishes to enjoy Malaysian, Japanese, Thai, Korean and, more recently, some amazing Vietnamese noodle dishes.

As you’re probably aware, most noodles are made from wheat, rice, potato starch, or buckwheat. Some are made with egg, others without. Wheat noodles are the oldest and most common. Like other products derived from wheat, such as bread and pasta, choosing an organic variety makes a lot of sense. Due to the significant economies of scale required to harvest wheat profitably, a monocultural approach to agriculture prevails amongst conventional growers. Consequently, wheat tends to be a heavily sprayed crop. And because of the constant demands placed on the soil there exists a requirement for large quantities of synthetic fertiliser to be routinely applied. In contrast, organic wheat farmers use crop rotation, break crops and cover crops to ensure the soil remains optimal and insects are managed, thus forgoing the need for chemical intervention. 

If you get the opportunity, check out Hakubaku, O’Hana House, and Clearspring. These companies are making some terrific organic noodles. Their high quality, and the obvious time and effort that has gone into perfecting these noodles, make them a perfect option for anyone who loves great food prepared according to traditional (and organic) standards.

Unfortunately, I was too young to ask Mrs Yee how she made her noodles – and the wonton soup – for that matter. And alas, as is often the case with primary school friends, I’ve lost touch with Danny over the years. But I sure do remember those big bowls of steaming hot noodles. It’s interesting how early memories such as these, and how even the simple pleasure of eating a bowl of noodles in good company, can change the way we think about food and also the types of food we seek out later in life.

Posted by D Bailey on November 22, 2007No CommentsPrinter Friendly

Arguments for reducing meat consumption

There are several popular arguments for reducing meat consumption and selecting alternative protein sources in the modern diet. The first of these is based on a body of research indicating adverse health consequences arising from excessive meat consumption. The second category encompasses all of the philosophical beliefs and convictions in favour of vegetarianism and the promotion of animal welfare. The third argument in favour of reduced meat consumption is based on the environmental impacts of intensive livestock production.

The majority of individuals in developed countries consume greater quantities of animal based protein than currently recommended by the World Health Organisation. This is clearly evident from the average daily intake for adults measured across the United States, Europe, and Australia. Overall estimates from the UK alone exceed four million tonnes of meat each year. That’s approximately 1m tonne of beef, 1.3m tonne of pork, 1.8m tonne of poultry, and 0.4m tonne of lamb and mutton. Only a small percentage of this quantity is raised according to the standards required for organic certification.

For many years, health authorities have warned against the potentially adverse health consequences of excessive meat protein consumption. Epidemiological studies have identified increased risk for a wide range of degenerative illnesses and the World Cancer Research Fund has reported that red meat increases the risk of several cancers. There is no scientific evidence to suggest organically certified meat is less harmful than conventionally produced meat products. Consumer groups do however, frequently advise that organic meat is safer on account of stricter hygiene procedures and careful restrictions against antibiotic and synthetic hormone applications in livestock management.

Animal welfare agencies have increased public awareness of the unfortunate practices involved in the intensive rearing of commercial livestock. These include debeaking and other cruelty associated with battery chickens, notoriously cramped and unsavoury conditions for enclosed cattle, pigs, goats, and other creatures reared exclusively for processing into meat products and manufactured foods. Certain religious and philosophical traditions contend that it is morally repugnant for to kill animals for the sake of food. While most consumers demand some quantity of animal protein in their diet, an increasing percentage of those also wish to be assured that the suffering and hardship of livestock has been minimised or alleviated where possible. Commercially astute farmers have responded by promoting the animal welfare components of organic and free range livestock production.

Intensive livestock production can be harmful to the environment. Scientists have suggested that the livestock industry contributes approximately ten percent of the planet’s greenhouse gas emissions. Cattle, in particular, are known to generate significant levels of the methane and carbon dioxide which contribute to global warming. Whether this might be considered a serious reason to reduce meat consumption is yet to be determined. Those extremely opposed to commercial livestock ventures will often claim that no reduction of greenhouse gases can be reliably attributed to organic or holistic based agricultural practices. A more realistic view would suggest that some livestock production is actually beneficial to the environment and important for maintaining a diverse and balanced agricultural ecosystem.

Posted by D Bailey on November 20, 20072 CommentsPrinter Friendly

Preserving the cultural value of food

A brief column published in The Independent last month has captured my attention. Philip Hensher sums up the lack of any respect afforded to food items which can now be purchased for such minimal expense and effort. He uses the example of a supermarket chicken which is purchased for about quarter the price that would be required for any producer to ensure good quality. Assuming the reasonably common scenario of a single person household, the chicken gets roasted and one portion of thigh and breast is eaten. The following day the consumer is faced with the cold chicken carcass and a decision. Fashion the remainder into another meal or discard it completely and start fresh with another incredibly cheap purchase from the local supermarket? We’ve all taken that option on many occasions but it really hits home when you see it printed so clearly on the page. “But let’s face it; nine times out of ten, you’ll just chuck the rest away.”

Okay, so evidently something is very wrong with the contemporary western attitude. It appears that we may have lost our ability to appreciate the cultural values of food. Of course, everyone will have a slightly different take on what’s missing but some concepts are sufficiently universal to stand the tests of diversity and time. Here are some of my own ideas reinforced by those of close friends and associates who care plenty about the continuing quality of life on this planet.

Let’s lose the dependence on factory farmed food - Sure it’s cheap but it doesn’t do a whole lot for our souls. We can lighten them by offering some consideration to those captive animals that deserve our respect and sympathy. The best sources of meat are probably still captured from the wild. Venison, seafood, turkey, and quail. Alternatively, captive animals should be reared as close to nature as can be arranged. This suggests free range and organically certified operations without the hormones, chemicals, or artificial temperature controls.

Learn how to get the most from each food item - When you boil it down, waste is simply a matter of ignorance. Food is wasted when we lack the foresight or imagination to put it to good use. Traditional cuisine is the natural antidote to careless waste. Once you immerse yourself in any valuable culinary tradition, there is profound insight into the spiritual and cultural significance of each dish. The value frequently lies in innovation, about defeating the odds and eating well despite the scarcity or inconsistency of resources.

Embrace the genuine emotion surrounding food - It wasn’t so long ago that we lived one day at a time, not sure whether food would be available the following. I’m not suggesting we should embrace a neurotic fear about starving, rather an awe, a sense of uncertainty and wonder. Nowadays we have such complete control and certainty regarding our supplies of food and sustenance. It hasn’t necessarily made us more generous or relaxed in our attitudes. It might be a cliche but many travellers returning from a visit to some dirt poor country will report being stunned or overwhelmed by the levels of generosity and kindness afforded to them. In many instances this will be demonstrated through the simple sharing of meals with a stranger.

Practice restraint and with medical permission, fast occasionally - There is little doubt that the contemporary western diet is leading many individuals toward obesity and a host of related health problems including diabetes, heart disease, and arthritis. One day of liquid fasting each month will usually improve health by cleansing the body and removing accumulated toxins. The real benefit of fasting is its effect on the mind. Some individuals describe a clarifying and purification of thought, enabling them to make better decisions, behave with greater kindness, and to fully appreciate the inherent rhythm and complexity of their lives.

Category: Just Food

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