Keeping Organic Dairy Traditions Alive - Part II

Organic Dairy FarmingIn Keeping Organic Dairy Traditions Alive, we were introduced to Jon Bansen, an organic dairy farmer. Jon’s knowledge and insights regarding what it means, and what it takes, to be an organic farmer are wonderfully captured in Part II of Cooking Up a Story’s video weblog entitled, Organic Dairyman: The Farmer.

Jon Bansen, and other organic farmers like him, will in time prove to be the future of food. Human beings can’t – and shouldn’t be aiming to - change natural processes. Whenever we do, we generally have to deal with the oftentimes unfortunate consequences of the guesswork masqueraded as the scientific underpinning for our interference with natural processes. Fortunately, the pendulum is swinging back in favour of organic farming practices. Why is this the case? It would be hard to say things any more eloquently than Jon has himself in this video.

Agriculture is a biological process; not an industrial process. Somewhere along the way, we missed that whole idea. That’s the wonderful thing about organics. Organics is about bringing biology back to our food.

I’m fast becoming a huge fan of Cooking Up A Story. Their video stories avoid the monotonous narration and self-absorbed opinion and introspection delivered by the presenters of some other video blogs. By allowing their interviewee to speak openly and honestly, and through careful editing, Cooking Up A Story manages to succinctly capture the essence of their subject matter. In doing so, they provide their audience with a slice of life that would otherwise be inaccessible. Great stuff! I strongly recommend that you take a look at the other wonderfully captured stories on their website.

Organic dried fruit

Not everyone enjoys dried fruit. But I do. Don’t get me wrong; given the choice I’ll usually reach for a fresh organic apple in preference to the dried alternative. But there are times when dried fruit comes in handy. One example that springs to mind is when I’m out hiking or tramping. Generally speaking, when I’m out hiking - usually in mountainous terrain - the last thing I want to be doing is carting around bulky provisions. Instead, I want food that’s light, nutritious, calorie dense and – if at all possible – tasty. Dried fruit fits the bill.

Drying fruit is an ancient tradition. The Egyptians, Greeks, Phoenicians and Persians used drying techniques to preserve highly perishable foods such as grapes, prunes and figs. According to the Greek Historian, Theodore Vallis, competitions were routinely held in parts of Ancient Greece to identify those within society most adept at maintaining the vigour and colour of seasonal fruits. Those who were judged capable of displaying counter-seasonal varieties with superb form, texture and taste were able to profit in both an economic and social sense.

While drying fruit with aplomb is unlikely to result in a speedy ascension to the top of society in today’s fast-paced world full of gimmicks and gadgetry, it’s interesting to note that many of the preservation techniques used by today’s organic food processors are identical to those practiced and mastered by our ancient friends. 

Enough history – what about the nutritional value of dried fruit? In general, dried fruit is high in dietary fibre, low in fat and cholesterol, and provides an excellent source of anti-oxidants. While the drying process generally results in a small reduction in water-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin C, the fat-soluble nutrients such as potassium and beta-carotene are capable of withstanding the drying process and remain in significant quantities.

Sulphur dioxide – a potential hazard

One potential concern for those suffering from allergies, and particularly for children with asthma, relates to the large quantities of sulphur dioxide routinely used in conventionally dried fruit. Although sulphur dioxide speeds the preservation process and ensures fruit retains its bright (almost fluorescent) colour, sulphur dioxide has been found to be harmful to children, particularly for those suffering from asthma and/or food sensitivities. If you’re keen to avoid sulphur dioxide for health reasons, make sure you read all labels carefully. The presence of Preservative 220 (221,222, 223, 224, 225) is another way conventional food processors legally acknowledge the presence of Sulphur Dioxide within their products. Be vigilant.

Unlike conventionally dried fruit, organic dried fruit undergoes a natural drying process. The use of sulphur dioxide is specifically banned. No additives, colours or preservatives are used. And obviously, the fruit used is organic. This might not seem too important until you realize that approximately two thirds of all dried fruit sampled in a United Kingdom Government-led 2005 study was found to contain significant levels of trace pesticides.

Buying and storing dried fruit

For some, the darker (less fluorescent) colour of organic dried fruit comes as a shock. Many of us have become accustomed to walking down our local supermarket aisle seeing nothing but brilliantly coloured (almost unreal looking) bright orange dried apricots and pears. You won’t find that dried organic fruit looks this way. But it’s not meant to either. When fruit is not pumped full of sulphur dioxide it takes on a decidedly more natural, somewhat earthy hue. Don’t be disappointed; it’s just the way dried fruit is meant to look.

Try and store your dried organic fruit in a cool, dry place. Avoid direct sunlight. Once you’ve opened whatever packaging your dried fruit originally came in, transfer your fruit to an airtight container and store in your refrigerator.

Drying your own fruit

It’s definitely possible to dry your own fruit. Although drying your own fruit tends to be a time-consuming process, which we’ll go into in more detail in a future post, there is also the sense of reward that comes with knowing you’ve done something for yourself. This is a particularly good option for those fortunate enough to have their own organic orchard brimming with fabulous fruit.

Organic turkey in high demand

Many consumers are choosing to put an organic turkey on their tables this festive season. There are some good reasons for them choosing to do so. For a start, organic turkeys are raised more humanely than their conventionally reared cousins. Instead of being force fed in cramped conditions utilising an intricate system of tubes and intravenous delivery mechanisms to provide sustenance, organically certified birds have access to open spaces. This enables organic birds to forage for natural sources of food such as worms, bugs and insects.

When organic turkeys are fed grain to supplement their natural diet, the grain itself must be from certified organic sources. In contrast, conventional turkeys are fed conventional grain. Conventional grain, which tends to be cheaper than organically certified grain, is sprayed with industrial agricultural chemicals (pesticides, herbicides and fungicides) and grown in soil requiring significant quantities of synthetic chemicals (chemical fertilizers). Many pesticides in particular, once consumed, are stored in mammalian muscle, fat, and organ tissue. Consuming conventionally reared protein sources provides our bodies with a concentrated intake of industrial agricultural chemicals.

Because conventionally reared birds live in cramped conditions, disease outbreaks tend to spread fast among the immunosuppressed birds. To arrest disease before it takes hold, antibiotics are routinely administered to conventional turkeys. In contrast, organic birds must not be given preventative antibiotic treatments. Fortunately, due to their superior diet and the natural conditions the birds enjoy, organic turkeys tend to be less stressed, better nourished, and relatively disease free. Consequently, there is no need for organic farmers to constantly rely upon preventative antibiotic treatments. The increased prevalence of preventative antibiotics in our food chain is sought by many medical professionals to be responsible for a rise in both the quantum and severity of antibiotic resistant outbreaks within our hospitals in recent years. 

While it’s great to see consumers getting behind the dedicated - generally small scale - farmers responsible for bringing organic turkeys to our tables at this time of year, the bird flu crisis, which appears to be worsening in the UK, has taken its toll on organic farmers in East Anglia. The Daily Mirror reports that Waitrose, a major UK department store, will be left without any organic turkeys this year. Apparently, Waitrose’s supply of organic turkey was to be sourced exclusively from East Anglia. Although reports indicate that other major retailers shouldn’t be impacted, it might pay to pick up that organic turkey soon.

Speaking of picking up an organic turkey, you might like to consider sourcing your turkey from one of the following:

Australia: Sunforest Organic Farm

Canada: Organa Farms

England: Woodlands Organic Farm

Ireland: James Whelan Butchers

Scotland: Jamesfield Farms

United States: Diestel Turkey Ranch

Wales: S & J Organics

Nurturing organic vines

The winemakers’ craft begins long before the annual harvest, when important decisions are made regarding the cultivation principles and ongoing management of carefully selected vines. Understandably, the organic approach specifies the importance of balancing each viticultural endeavour within the wider context of the surrounding ecosystem. A well managed organic vineyard should provide insight for individuals keen on recycling and avoiding the wasted resources which tend to accumulate in other agricultural enterprises.

Since the widespread acceptance of mass-produced wines, there have been fewer opportunities to appreciate the individual components which contribute to regional character, complexity, and coarseness, on many occasions. It is sometimes noted that brilliant wine requires the risk of creating exceptionally poor wine. Others commentators have rephrased such paradoxical insight by suggesting that fruit picked from poor quality vines can only be transformed into excellent wine through concentrating rather than attempting to disguise the perceived shortcomings.

Rather than promoting unified blandness, each component is valued for the strength or character of its expression. By measure of combined volume, grape pulp is the major constituent of any wine. The pulp comprises of water, sugar, fruit acids, and various aromatic compounds. From the organic perspective, minor constituents provide the greater opportunity to promote distinction among separate vines and locations within a region. The skin of each berry provides colour, tannins, and flavonol compounds while the waxy outer layers contain the natural yeasts which contribute to fermentation. Pips and stalks contain bitter tannins and complex aromatic compounds which may lift or complement the soft finish of an aged wine.

Nurturing is best applied with careful water restrictions in place. Most European varieties prefer relatively dry climate and can be raised without the application of chemical fungicides. Some growers choose to prioritise the overall volume of their harvest by encouraging larger berries. Others continue to seek a smaller, compact fruit, thereby allowing greater expression from the skin and stalks, as opposed to the pulp. 

In search of organic noodles

Noodles are the fast food of Asia. They’re inexpensive, taste great and come in varieties too numerous to mention. In fact, the number of countries that have adopted them as an important, and in some cases defining, part of their national cuisine is astounding. And, unlike most Western fast food options - which tend to be overburdened with saturated fat, salt and sugar – noodles, when thoughtfully prepared, have the capacity to be used as the foundation for many nutritionally balanced meals. With a young family, that’s an important consideration for me. So, it’s with some considerable interest that I’ve noted the rise of some outstanding noodle options available for today’s organic consumer.

Before going further, I have to confess to being a huge noodle fan. When I was young, Danny Yee’s mother used to make some of the best homemade noodle and wonton soup you could ever wish to taste. Mrs Yee, a kind woman who looked after my two brothers and me while our dad worked night shifts, would often prepare for all of us a bowl of piping hot noodle and wonton soup. I’ve been hooked ever since.

From those early noodle experiences, my tastes have broadened. I’ve ventured beyond some of the more traditional Chinese noodle dishes to enjoy Malaysian, Japanese, Thai, Korean and, more recently, some amazing Vietnamese noodle dishes.

As you’re probably aware, most noodles are made from wheat, rice, potato starch, or buckwheat. Some are made with egg, others without. Wheat noodles are the oldest and most common. Like other products derived from wheat, such as bread and pasta, choosing an organic variety makes a lot of sense. Due to the significant economies of scale required to harvest wheat profitably, a monocultural approach to agriculture prevails amongst conventional growers. Consequently, wheat tends to be a heavily sprayed crop. And because of the constant demands placed on the soil there exists a requirement for large quantities of synthetic fertiliser to be routinely applied. In contrast, organic wheat farmers use crop rotation, break crops and cover crops to ensure the soil remains optimal and insects are managed, thus forgoing the need for chemical intervention. 

If you get the opportunity, check out Hakubaku, O’Hana House, and Clearspring. These companies are making some terrific organic noodles. Their high quality, and the obvious time and effort that has gone into perfecting these noodles, make them a perfect option for anyone who loves great food prepared according to traditional (and organic) standards.

Unfortunately, I was too young to ask Mrs Yee how she made her noodles – and the wonton soup – for that matter. And alas, as is often the case with primary school friends, I’ve lost touch with Danny over the years. But I sure do remember those big bowls of steaming hot noodles. It’s interesting how early memories such as these, and how even the simple pleasure of eating a bowl of noodles in good company, can change the way we think about food and also the types of food we seek out later in life.

Arguments for reducing meat consumption

There are several popular arguments for reducing meat consumption and selecting alternative protein sources in the modern diet. The first of these is based on a body of research indicating adverse health consequences arising from excessive meat consumption. The second category encompasses all of the philosophical beliefs and convictions in favour of vegetarianism and the promotion of animal welfare. The third argument in favour of reduced meat consumption is based on the environmental impacts of intensive livestock production.

The majority of individuals in developed countries consume greater quantities of animal based protein than currently recommended by the World Health Organisation. This is clearly evident from the average daily intake for adults measured across the United States, Europe, and Australia. Overall estimates from the UK alone exceed four million tonnes of meat each year. That’s approximately 1m tonne of beef, 1.3m tonne of pork, 1.8m tonne of poultry, and 0.4m tonne of lamb and mutton. Only a small percentage of this quantity is raised according to the standards required for organic certification.

For many years, health authorities have warned against the potentially adverse health consequences of excessive meat protein consumption. Epidemiological studies have identified increased risk for a wide range of degenerative illnesses and the World Cancer Research Fund has reported that red meat increases the risk of several cancers. There is no scientific evidence to suggest organically certified meat is less harmful than conventionally produced meat products. Consumer groups do however, frequently advise that organic meat is safer on account of stricter hygiene procedures and careful restrictions against antibiotic and synthetic hormone applications in livestock management.

Animal welfare agencies have increased public awareness of the unfortunate practices involved in the intensive rearing of commercial livestock. These include debeaking and other cruelty associated with battery chickens, notoriously cramped and unsavoury conditions for enclosed cattle, pigs, goats, and other creatures reared exclusively for processing into meat products and manufactured foods. Certain religious and philosophical traditions contend that it is morally repugnant for to kill animals for the sake of food. While most consumers demand some quantity of animal protein in their diet, an increasing percentage of those also wish to be assured that the suffering and hardship of livestock has been minimised or alleviated where possible. Commercially astute farmers have responded by promoting the animal welfare components of organic and free range livestock production.

Intensive livestock production can be harmful to the environment. Scientists have suggested that the livestock industry contributes approximately ten percent of the planet’s greenhouse gas emissions. Cattle, in particular, are known to generate significant levels of the methane and carbon dioxide which contribute to global warming. Whether this might be considered a serious reason to reduce meat consumption is yet to be determined. Those extremely opposed to commercial livestock ventures will often claim that no reduction of greenhouse gases can be reliably attributed to organic or holistic based agricultural practices. A more realistic view would suggest that some livestock production is actually beneficial to the environment and important for maintaining a diverse and balanced agricultural ecosystem.

Preserving the cultural value of food

A brief column published in The Independent last month has captured my attention. Philip Hensher sums up the lack of any respect afforded to food items which can now be purchased for such minimal expense and effort. He uses the example of a supermarket chicken which is purchased for about quarter the price that would be required for any producer to ensure good quality. Assuming the reasonably common scenario of a single person household, the chicken gets roasted and one portion of thigh and breast is eaten. The following day the consumer is faced with the cold chicken carcass and a decision. Fashion the remainder into another meal or discard it completely and start fresh with another incredibly cheap purchase from the local supermarket? We’ve all taken that option on many occasions but it really hits home when you see it printed so clearly on the page. “But let’s face it; nine times out of ten, you’ll just chuck the rest away.”

Okay, so evidently something is very wrong with the contemporary western attitude. It appears that we may have lost our ability to appreciate the cultural values of food. Of course, everyone will have a slightly different take on what’s missing but some concepts are sufficiently universal to stand the tests of diversity and time. Here are some of my own ideas reinforced by those of close friends and associates who care plenty about the continuing quality of life on this planet.

Let’s lose the dependence on factory farmed food - Sure it’s cheap but it doesn’t do a whole lot for our souls. We can lighten them by offering some consideration to those captive animals that deserve our respect and sympathy. The best sources of meat are probably still captured from the wild. Venison, seafood, turkey, and quail. Alternatively, captive animals should be reared as close to nature as can be arranged. This suggests free range and organically certified operations without the hormones, chemicals, or artificial temperature controls.

Learn how to get the most from each food item - When you boil it down, waste is simply a matter of ignorance. Food is wasted when we lack the foresight or imagination to put it to good use. Traditional cuisine is the natural antidote to careless waste. Once you immerse yourself in any valuable culinary tradition, there is profound insight into the spiritual and cultural significance of each dish. The value frequently lies in innovation, about defeating the odds and eating well despite the scarcity or inconsistency of resources.

Embrace the genuine emotion surrounding food - It wasn’t so long ago that we lived one day at a time, not sure whether food would be available the following. I’m not suggesting we should embrace a neurotic fear about starving, rather an awe, a sense of uncertainty and wonder. Nowadays we have such complete control and certainty regarding our supplies of food and sustenance. It hasn’t necessarily made us more generous or relaxed in our attitudes. It might be a cliche but many travellers returning from a visit to some dirt poor country will report being stunned or overwhelmed by the levels of generosity and kindness afforded to them. In many instances this will be demonstrated through the simple sharing of meals with a stranger.

Practice restraint and with medical permission, fast occasionally - There is little doubt that the contemporary western diet is leading many individuals toward obesity and a host of related health problems including diabetes, heart disease, and arthritis. One day of liquid fasting each month will usually improve health by cleansing the body and removing accumulated toxins. The real benefit of fasting is its effect on the mind. Some individuals describe a clarifying and purification of thought, enabling them to make better decisions, behave with greater kindness, and to fully appreciate the inherent rhythm and complexity of their lives.

Identifying suspect food additives

Every parent knows that children are susceptible to the sophisticated marketing strategies employed by manufacturers of processed food products. It’s not surprising when basic lines like breakfast cereal, cookies, drinks, and chips are linked to popular media characters like Spiderman, Dr Who, and Barbie. What many parents fail to realise is the extent to which some of these foods can be saturated with suspect chemical additives.

Chemical additives in food have been linked to a number of medical and psychological conditions which can affect childhood well-being and development. These include common and rare allergies, hyperactivity disorder, and appetite disturbances. Because they cannot be used by the body for normal growth and repair, most chemical additives need to be processed and eliminated. This represents an inefficient utilisation of resources.

One of the real difficulties confronting parents and caregivers is the complexity of the coded labelling system for common food additives. In the middle of a busy supermarket aisle with various distractions, how many consumers can readily identify the significance of E102, E104, or E129? Excepting those with heightened levels of interest or a food science qualification, many of us will fail to properly decipher the labels.

A helpful website is currently available to anyone seeking to identify those foods, drinks, and medications which contain the chemical additives linked to the developmental and health issues described above. Action on Additives was established by Lizzie Vann, the founder of a company promoting organic baby food. The website also encourages consumers to report products which are marketed to children yet contain suspect food additives.

Keeping organic dairy traditions alive

Next time you feel as though you’re tied to your current job and in need of a break, spare a thought for your local organic dairy farmer. Organic dairy farming is a year-round undertaking that requires real dedication. While many of us are aware of the benefits of consuming organic dairy products and even the research confirming these benefits, unless you hail from a dairy farm, you may not appreciate the extent of the commitment required to deliver high quality organic dairy products.

In a wonderful two-part short film entitled Organic Dairyman: A Family Tradition, Cooking Up a Story – a site dedicated to breathing life into authentic stories about food – provides us with an insight into the life of Jon Bansen, an organic dairy farmer.

Interestingly, it all starts with the happiness of the cows. By ensuring their needs are met, the cows are capable of producing high quality milk. It’s simple and it makes a lot of sense. And as Jon points out in the film, his grandfather was - albeit unknowingly - an organic farmer too. It’s only in recent times that we’ve grown accustomed to the idea that our farms require chemical inputs to drive efficiency gains.

It makes me happy to know that there are people like Jon Bansen involved in farming today. Organic dairy farmers like Jon are responsible for keeping alive the traditions of previous generations and delivering us with food the way it should be produced.

If you enjoyed this short film as much as I did, I strongly encourage you to visit Cooking Up a Story, where you’ll find more high quality short films looking at food - its origins and the people who bring it to us.

Increased yields with organic agriculture

Organic agriculture is widely criticised by economists and practical scientists who favour conventional models of food production. Recurrent claims insist that organic farming methods do not produce the quantities of food required to feed a global population. This is certainly the case at present, however the land and environmental resources devoted to organic production remain a small fraction of the overall agricultural distribution. Given this lack of equal comparison, is it reasonable for supporters of organic agriculture to continuously defend the suitability of their methods? I believe so, providing there is some genuine effort to address specific criticisms with tabulated data from well-documented studies.

This has been the approach taken by a team from the University of Michigan (Badgley et al, 2007). By compiling research gathered from 293 independent comparisons, their study was designed to quantitatively evaluate the relative efficiency of the two agricultural systems. A summary of their findings offers valid defence against two of the primary objections to organic farming.

First and foremost, their study revealed the potential for increased yields with organic agriculture. The breakdown of individual energy estimates for current production systems is cited as 2786 calories per person per day. This compares with an organic production estimate between 2641 and 4381 calories per person per day. The difference is generated by the fact that effective organic systems almost double the agricultural output for producers in developing countries. While this type of result is easily lost amidst the complex economic challenges confronting all third world producers, it is worth our effort to seek out the most likely causes. The authors of this study offer relatively simple explanations. For example, the basic resources required for organic production methods are more likely to be accessible to farmers in developing countries. There are also practical and cultural factors which enable small-scale organic farms to be more efficient and productive than similar operations in developed regions.

Proponents of conventional agriculture will often question the sufficient availability of nitrogen and other nutrient sources for highly productive farms in developing regions. The authors of this study calculated the average amounts of nitrogen available to organic production when the local growing seasons were interspersed by the laying of green manure crops. It was discovered that this basic practice ensured sufficient nitrogen without the additional need for synthetic or chemical based fertilizers.

The major weakness associated with organic agriculture in developing regions is not therefore attributed to the overall volume of food production or the absence of sustainable fertility in relation to soil nutrients. It is posited as the lack of economic and regional infrastructure required to effectively distribute even the most locally available food resources.

Reference: Badgley et al “Organic Agriculture and the Global Food Supply” Renewable Horticulture and Food Systems (Vol 22: 86-100, 2007)

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