A fresh look at cotton

When raised according to the ill-founded principles of intensive agriculture, cotton is one of the most ecologically destructive crops which can be planted. In response to disease and insect pests, the majority of cotton producers become dependent on a chemical arsenal which impacts heavily upon the soil and surrounding environment. The scale of this problem can be understood from estimations that cotton production accounts for one quarter of the total volume of pesticides used throughout the world each year. After a while, continued application of these pesticides contributes to sterile soils. Because they become devoid of the living organisms which promote normal nutrient recovery and plant growth, sterile soils are dependent upon a continual application of synthetic fertilisers.

To reach maturity, cotton requires substantial irrigation. This interacts with water soluble chemicals to create ongoing problems of groundwater pollution, salination and erosion. The problems of intensive cotton production may impact on our health and wellbeing in a variety of ways. Pesticides enter the human food chain directly through soil and groundwater contamination, or as a residue within processed foods containing cottonseed oil. Cattle and other stock are routinely fed cottonseed meal and other material salvaged from cotton harvesting. Products sourced from these animals may be contaminated with pesticide residue from the cotton.

Despite assurances of minimal risk, many consumers remain concerned that a significant proportion of cotton is now raised from genetically modified seed. The principal reason for their genetic modification is to facilitate resistance to the herbicides employed to eradicate weeds after sowing.

There is an alternative

The best alternative to mainstream cotton production is based on organic principles. Organic farming eliminates the use of harmful chemicals, genetically modified organisms, and protects the environment by promoting healthy soils, clean water, and natural biodiversity. Organic production utilises a range of strategies which are fundamentally different from those associated with conventional cotton farming. In broad terms, organic production is fully integrated within a system which is based on the positive combination of ecological and economic relationships.

In the early stages of the organic fibre movement, difficult economic circumstances necessitated the emergence of cooperative management authorities which were able to represent the interests of many smaller scale cotton producers. These addressed serious issues like the low prices offered for organic cotton in comparison to other organic crops and the lack of market demand for rotation crops. This allowed strategic planning and marketing to coincide with the practical aspects of organic farming. The key objectives for each cooperative is to identify opportunities for adding value to their primary product and to promote consumer and industry awareness of the unique values associated with organic cotton production.

For a number of reasons, organic farming cannot directly compete with the high intensity approach of conventional cotton production. Without chemical assistance, any successful attempt to grow cotton is dependent on the selection and maintenance of suitable agricultural land. Cotton is well suited to elevated plains with fertile soils, moderate rainfall, and winter frosts which prepare plants for efficient harvesting without the need for chemical defoliants. Natural soil fertility is encouraged through the cropping of green manures, recycling organic materials, and the application of animal manures. Cover crops are useful for soil protection as well as providing habitat for the predatory insects which control the mites, bugs, and aphids which feed on the cotton plants. Because organic crops are usually planted at lower densities than conventional cotton, the harvested yields may be substantially lower on an acreage comparison.

Uses of organic cotton

Organic cotton is used in a range of manufactured items including bedding, sportswear, fashion clothing, footwear, personal hygiene, and quality paper products. The ecological principles motivating organic cotton production provide a unique point of differentiation for manufacturers of new products and those seeking to increase the appeal of well-established brands. With increasing awareness of environmental issues, many of us are prepared to contribute something to reduce our personal impact upon the planet.

Another reason for preferring organic cotton relates to the health and hygiene advantages of a natural fibre with a high degree of purity. Organic products are beneficial for individuals with reactive allergies and those with sensitive skin. Hospitals and nursing homes provide organic cotton sheets because they improve comfort while reducing the incidence and severity of bedsores in elderly and incapacitated patients. Many consumers habitually search for organic certification labels as an assurance of premium quality. A lot of items sold in fashion wear shops today are poorly designed, roughly sewn, and garishly overbearing in their synthetic hues. Beautifully tailored organic cotton clothing is now widely available for children and adults in a range of subtle earth tones.

From the manufacturer’s perspective, there are several key decisions which influence the overall quality and integrity of their products. Most of these relate to the processing which ultimately enables raw cotton to be fashioned into attractive and practical garments. Conventional cotton milling involves synthetic dyes, bleaching, and a surprising number of chemical agents. Some of these impart detectable residues on the finished product.

In order to reduce confusion and provide consumers with some information about the technology behind their products, organic textile manufacturers can adopt an international standard. The Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) were developed to address quality issues regarding the post harvest processing and labelling of organic fibre products. The sustainable alternatives to conventional milling are often based on craft practices borrowed from traditional societies. The challenge for successful organic manufacturers is to acknowledge and pay a reasonable amount for these borrowed practices while refining them to improve their overall consistency and suitability for contemporary applications.