Exfoliation and hair removal

For most healthy individuals, a periodic exfoliation will help keep the skin supple and smooth. By removing the extreme outer layer of dead, flaking skin, there is likely to be an increased rate of renewal and less opportunity for pores to become clogged or inflamed. Clear pores enable the lubricating oils known as sebum to flow freely to the surface where they provide a moisture resistant coating to protect the skin. There are several materials and procedures commonly used to exfoliate the face and body, so it is helpful to understand the potential benefits and limitations of each category.

Physical exfoliators

Physical exfoliators include a broad range of brushing implements, scouring devices, and particles that can be included in gels and creams. Natural products like coarse sponge, loofah, grain husks, and sand have been used since ancient times. The main advantage with physical exfoliators is their direct action and ready availability. In most cases it is relatively easy to purchase these items and to ensure their purity. The main disadvantage is their unsuitability for individuals with particularly sensitive or problematic skin. In these cases, the repeated sloughing action of coarse particles or bristles can contribute to an unhealthy thickening of skin. The best alternative is to obtain an organic facial cleanser specifically formulated for sensitive skin. Failing this, a simple exfoliating preparation containing raw oats should be safe enough to use on a fortnightly basis.  When combined with pure water and several drops of lavender oil, finely shredded oats are one of the best physical exfoliators for sensitive skin. In addition to the gentle sloughing action, this paste provides moisturising, nourishing, and healing properties.

Fruit acids

Alpha-hydroxy acids, also known as fruit acids are a range of substances found naturally in citrus fruits, apples, milk products, and wine vinegars. Since the nineties, many facial cleansers and skin care products have included fruit acids on account of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effects on normal, healthy skin. In technical terms, they work by dissolving the protein bonds that glue and support dead skin cells on the surface of the body. Once this outer layer is exfoliated, it is washed away to reveal a fresher and brighter complexion. After several applications, fine facial lines may be reduced or eliminated and the treated skin should become noticeably smoother.

The use of fruit acids in a wide range of skin care products is currently in vogue. Despite their broad popularity, some potential disadvantages should be considered prior to use. While fruit acids are certainly present in natural foods, there is no guarantee that large cosmetic manufacturers will obtain them from this source. In many instances the active ingredient will be a synthetic chemical imitation of the natural substance. Aside from a cost and efficiency advantage, the manufacturing of synthetic versions allows the concentration and strength of active ingredients to be tightly controlled according to individual product specifications.

Under certain conditions, concentrated fruit acids may pose a health risk for individuals with sensitive skin types. If the exfoliating action penetrates too deeply, the skin may become more vulnerable to sunlight, chemical pollutants, and other types of environmental damage.

Chemical peeling

The chemical peel is a cosmetic skin procedure which is sometimes classified as a type of radical exfoliation. In actual fact it is only the very mild and superficial peels which share similarities of process and result.

Chemical peels are promoted by some surgeons and beauty therapists who claim they can dramatically improve the appearance of ageing skin. Like any consumer product in this area, such claims need to be carefully evaluated in a dispassionate manner.

Mature skin, like every other manifestation of the ageing process, has its basis at the cellular level. Despite what some might lead us to believe, there is currently no surface treatment which can safely rejuvenate the underlying matrix of cells which contribute to the surface appearance of healthy skin. At the level of surface camouflage, chemical peels are capable of reducing or eliminating fine wrinkles and some of the discoloration and blotchiness that can affect mature skin. These procedures are not effective for thin surfaces around the eyes and throat, nor can they erase dynamic wrinkles such as frown lines across the forehead.

The potential risks associated with chemical peeling are considerable. Medium and deep chemical peels require physical pain relief; in some cases a general anaesthesia will be recommended.

Phenol or carbolic acid is one of the chemicals used for deep peeling. Labelled an experimental carcinogen and teratogen, this highly toxic substance affects the heart, which must be carefully monitored during the procedure. Accurate descriptions of the recovery process do not invite casual consideration of these techniques. Facial swelling can be so extreme that the eyes may not shut for several days. The treated skin is expected to crust over and weep as it begins to heal over several weeks. Post treatment complications can include increased sensitivity, skin discoloration and permanent scarring.

In weighing these factors, it seems that chemical peels should be avoided by rational, health conscious consumers. Better results are readily available through a combination of sensible nutrition, organic skin care products, and regular exercise.

Hair removal

Whether undertaken at home or in a professional salon, the removal of unwanted facial and body hair should be a relatively simple and effective procedure. There is a considerable range of products and techniques to assist the task. The best option will probably depend on the quantity and quality of hair to be removed, in addition to the level of permanence that is required. Shaving is one of the traditional hair removal techniques that continues to be widely practiced by both men and women. It is appropriate for many body areas and has the advantage of being economical, quick, and relatively safe and painless. A sharp safety blade combined with good moisturising creams will enable a closer shave while protecting the skin. The main disadvantage with shaving is that most of the hair will regrow as ticklish stubble within a week or so. Contrary to popular wisdom, shaved hairs do not get replaced by thicker or coarser ones.

Waxing

Waxing has the advantage of being a semi permanent form of hair removal. When performed effectively, individual hairs will be uprooted from below the skin surface. Results last for approximately one month, after which new regrowth occurs. A small percentage of individuals seem to find waxing quite painful, and there are some products which may irritate sensitive skin types. Performing a patch test on a small area is the simplest way to assess this risk. There is also some risk of the occasional ingrown hair which may result in a boil like infections beneath the skin. For most individuals, these will heal quickly although any symptoms of general soreness or swelling around the site must be closely monitored.

Electrolysis

Most beauty salons offer electrolysis as their standard procedure for permanent hair removal. Electrolysis destroys the unwanted hair follicle by delivering small electric currents with a needle like probe. Because each hair must be individually selected then removed, electrolysis tends to be a slow, time consuming process. It is most suitable for small areas of defined hair growth although larger ones can be tackled over numerous sessions. The sensation of an electrolysis current can be mildly painful for some individuals and the overall cost of treatment can become an issue if multiple sessions are required.