Posted by Bruce McClure on September 15, 20077 CommentsPrinter Friendly
In addition to plenty of sunlight, fruit trees and vines need to be sheltered from the wind. Even moderate exposure will create problems, such as falling fruit, damaged growth and the discouragement of pollinating insects. Sometimes, it is a good idea to plant rows of taller trees to form a natural wind barrier for protecting tender varieties like peaches and pears. Their distance and eventual height must be carefully judged because the fruit trees will hardly appreciate close competition or heavy shade from large neighbours.
Similarly, it is a good idea to avoid cold pockets and hollows that may be subject to extended frosts during winter. The short lived blossoms of many fruit bearing trees are particularly vulnerable and may require some temporary protection in the form of a portable solar frame, a greenhouse or similar temperature controlled environment.
The best sites for planting fruit bearing tees will have deep soils that are rich in complex organic nutrients and minerals. Apple and pear varieties usually prefer the slightly acidic soil of coastal regions, while many of the stone fruit varieties like cherries and plums do better with the mild alkalinity of inland soils. With the exception of blueberries, cranberries and their lesser known relatives, fruit bearing species do not tolerate damp or poorly drained soils that experience frequent waterlogging.
Sunny patios and balconies are often suitable locations for susceptible varieties, particularly those growing in latitudes cooler than their preferred climate range. Extra heat will be generated with a clear canopy of solar insulation and any smaller trees or shrubs housed in pots can be moved indoors for the coldest months during winter. Careful positioning alongside a large clear window or sliding glass door should ensure that sufficient sunlight is available for most of the day during fine conditions.
Fruit trees and vines seem to benefit from planting alongside a diverse range of companion species. Common culinary herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, chives, nasturtiums, and garlic usually work well. In addition to discouraging fruit destroying insects and larvae, the aromatic herbs are widely believed to improve the flavour of citrus species like lemon, lime, and mandarins as well as most grape varieties including muscat, cornichon and trebbiano. There is something vibrant and traditional about rows of organic herbs planted between rows of fruit trees or vines. Many organic fruit producers have followed this approach and it also seems to suit boutique vineyards. Amateur gardeners will benefit from visiting one of these innovative setups, particularly if someone knowledgeable is available to explain their particular layout and to answer questions.
Juvenile plants will generally require more space and attention than established fruit trees and vines. Ideally, the preparation phase of the garden will allow a reasonable circumference of dedicated space for each new tree or shrub planted. The apportioned space must take several factors into account including an optimum availability of sunlight for the maturing plant along with the water and nutrient requirement of the parent rootstock. According to the qualities of their soil and the species in question, organic fruit producers will estimate the appropriate distances between each new sapling. When planting new trees, experienced growers will also minimise any physical disruption to the soil. It is not advisable to vigorously clear selected ground before planting, since the natural drainage qualities of soil will be compromised by widespread digging or raking across the surface. Once a young tree is planted, a good quality organic mulch will provide ideal moisture conservation along with some natural protection against weeds and other unwanted plants.
Wouldn’t your average orchard be so much nicer with rows of herbs between the trees. Even if some of the organic techniques doesn’t work, you at least end up with a pretty place to visit.
The challenge is to see the potential in a piece of land that nobodys recommending. You can grow apricots in the desert if you have to.
Know exactly what your saying Ahamuod, some people say that the site chooses the grower as opposed to the other way.
We once lived on a very steep block of land which was eventually terraced. The fruit trees did very well on the higher ground and we were proud to avoid any of the sprays that our neighbours recommended.
I tryinng to grow this peachs but am upset by this smelly bugas witch leaving a sticky gums on a fruit. Is their organic solition for these please.
Felix, you must identify those pests and then seek advice from your local nursery. They might try and sell you a chemical but they will also have alternative solutions like organic products and cultural controls.
Hi
I have just bought acreage in Stanthorpe but am afraid the soil may have been used prior with chemicals as it is an old fruit property. How can I treat the soil prior to planting and find out what is in my soil please?