Chocolate lovers choose organic

Why have so many chocolate lovers shifted their allegiance to organically certified products? We contacted industry representatives across the globe for their responses. Sjaaks is a family business located in Northern California specialising in the manufacture of premium quality organic chocolates. Jessica Holten is the daughter of Sjaaks founder, Jacques Holten. Having grown up with chocolate, Jessica probably has a better understanding than most. She believes many consumers have become increasingly wary of the high levels of pesticides applied to raise conventional cocoa crops. The chocolate products may then contain residual chemicals present within the cocoa butter as derived from the oily components of the bean. Jessica also agrees with our perception that dark organic chocolate is gaining in popularity. Most milk chocolates lack the depth of flavour and she points to tastes becoming increasingly refined as consumers explore the subtleties of dark chocolate. In addition, the high antioxidant levels and well reported health benefits have encouraged many individuals to switch to dark chocolate products.

From Australia, Christine Giarrusso agrees with Jessica’s take on the pesticide concerns. Definitely Chocolate offers a premium organic chocolate which is free of chemical pesticides and genetically modified ingredients. Christine also believes that dark chocolate is gaining in popularity, but not necessarily at the expense of milk or compound chocolate products. She says that many of their customers already enjoy the complex tastes of dark chocolate and that recent media coverage on its health benefits may therefore be perceived as an additional bonus.

As representative of the German chocolate company Vivani, Monika Noack reminds us that it is attention to detail which distinguishes fine organic chocolates from the rest. She points to the choice of raw organic sugars as opposed to refined and the extended conching process which enables their chocolates to be manufactured without emulsifying additives. The German chocolate manufacturers are also dedicated to sourcing their ingredients from plantations supporting the healthy diversity of species required for sustainably managed crops.

It’s all about cocoa

Until recently, it was widely assumed that chocolate provided minimal nutritional or health benefits. Well a comforting truth has been revealed. Repeated studies are now indicating that small quantities of dark chocolate may initiate some very positive health effects. The natural flavonoids present in cocoa and dark chocolate possess strong antioxidant properties which can reduce cumulative damage to blood vessels, decreasing the risk of cardiovascular disease, heart attack, and stroke. Another compound in dark chocolate is believed to relax the arterial blood vessels while inhibiting the aggregation of platelets and other cells which may otherwise create temporary blockage of the arteries.

Cocoa is native to South America where it was harvested for thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans. In its natural state, the cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao) inhabits lowland rainforest and lives beneath the canopy of taller species. The expansive biodiversity of their habitat plays an important role in the life cycle of the cacao species. For example, pollination is facilitated by numerous insects which live within the humid canopy of the rainforest. There is also an integral balance between beneficial insect predators and those which attack the foliage and roots of the cocoa tree.

Most of the world’s cocoa is currently sourced from West African plantations. When intensively raised in monocultural environments, the trees are very susceptible to a variety of fungal infections and pathogenic organisms. This can result in higher than average levels of chemical use. In poorer countries, it is not unknown for these to include stockpiles of agricultural products which are currently banned in more affluent countries for health and safety reasons.

Organic cocoa

Organically certified cocoa is grown without pesticides and other chemical treatments. One of the sustainable approaches employed by organic cocoa producers is to plant trees at lower densities beneath a canopy of shade providing species. This simulation of natural growing conditions improves local biodiversity and decreases the incidence of disease. Over the years, Manuel Costello has imported large quantities of cocoa from countries like Grenada, Brazil, and The Ivory Coast. “We used to secure the supplies with agents”, he says. “Now it’s better if we deal directly with our growers. Experienced clients always demand quality. The highest quality cocoa expresses deeply complex flavours, which distinguish the finest chocolates and drinking blends. The organic product is more expensive than standard grown beans, but successful clients accept that. They don’t question the market. That’s good business sense”.

Processing cocoa

After harvesting the beans, several additional processes are required to create the cocoa butters which can be used to manufacture the different grades of chocolate and drinking cocoa.

In their raw state, cocoa beans are fairly dry and bitter. To release additional flavours, the beans must be shelled then roasted. After roasting, they are ground into a creamy pulp which is fermented to reduce bitterness and increase the chocolate flavours. Fermentation is encouraged by repeatedly agitating the pulp over several hours. Extended agitation periods (up to several days) are applied to produce the smoother blends of Swiss and Belgian chocolate. The cocoa butter is usually treated with several alkalinising substances to remove impurities. At this stage it can be sieved to separate some of the solids which are dried to create a cocoa powder. The remaining cocoa butter can be blended with sugar, milk solids, additional oils, and emulsifier to create chocolate.

There are many recipes and techniques which are used for manufacturing chocolate. The quality of the finished product will depend entirely upon the integrity of the raw ingredients and the manufacturing processes involved. Organically certified dark chocolates generally contain at least thirty percent cocoa butter. This ensures the flavour complexity often described as bittersweet. Milk chocolate is typically smoother and sweeter with around twenty percent cocoa butter.

Functional properties

One of the recent trends observed in chocolate and confectionery manufacturing is the move towards creating products with functional health benefits. This is closely linked to research which has identified the therapeutic effects of the flavonol compounds within dark chocolate.

There is a move to increase the quantity of beneficial flavonols while controlling levels of saturated fat and sweeteners. This necessitates that cocoa beans should be carefully handled and processed to ensure preservation of their natural properties. Over the next few years consumers should be able to purchase heart smart chocolate made with pure, organically certified ingredients.