A return to the art of cheese making

Today, there are an incredible variety of organic cheese products available from almost every region of the world. Frequently named as one of the most basic and historically ancient foods, cheese continues to distinguish itself with the ongoing popularity of five traditional varieties. The big five include fetta, mozzarella, Parmesan, Swiss and cheddar. Visit your nearest continental delicatessen and ask the proprietor about cheese sales. Whether you live in New York, London, or Sydney, the big five will represent around seventy percent of total cheese sales. Each of the big five varieties is produced in extremely large volumes every year with vast differences in quality between the premium and average grades of cheese. There are of course many contemporary cheese makers who prefer to avoid high volume and mainstream production to pursue one or more of the artisanal varieties.

High quality raw materials

The overall quality and nutritional value of any cheese is undoubtedly determined by the quality of its raw ingredients. Primarily this involves milk, whether it is sourced from cows, goat, sheep, buffalo, yak, or reindeer. A second, most important ingredient is the culture or bacterial enzymes required to initiate the curd. Other ingredients used to flavour boutique and dessert cheeses can include herbs, fruit, nuts, and grains.

Nutritional analyses of milk from pasture fed cows have revealed significantly higher amounts of linoleic acid compared to the milk from grain fed animals. At certain times of the year, notably spring and autumn, pasture fed milk is likely to contain up to five times the linoleic acid content of milk produced through grain feeds. Linoleic acid has been linked to a reduced incidence of certain types of cancer.

There are also studies which reveal organic milk to have higher proportions of vitamin E, beta carotene, and Omega 3 fatty acids compared to conventional milk. Vitamin E and beta-carotene are important antioxidants while Omega 3 can assist in lowering blood cholesterol levels. In combination, these reports suggest that organic milk obtained from pasture fed animals provides superior nutritional qualities than alternative supplies. While many people have become accustomed to the watery taste of low fat milk, the creamier texture of milk obtained from healthy, pasture fed animals remains the best ingredient for making most varieties of cheese.

One hundred years ago, the majority of cheeses were handmade in small batches using fresh local ingredients. Depending on the variety and desired vintage, finished cheeses were coated in wax then left to mature slowly in underground cellars. Since that time, advancements in manufacturing technology have resulted in commercial operations which deliver large volumes of standardised product to supermarkets and convenience stores around the country. The cheeses are made in anonymous dairy processing factories with fresh and powdered milk, preservative, stabilisers, synthetic cultures, and a range of other additives including colouring agents, flavours, and thickeners. From uniform blocks, the cheese is then sliced, shredded, or even pressed into fancy shapes before shrink-wrapping in retail or commercial catering packets.

While most supermarkets appear to have a reasonably wide selection of cheeses, it is quite possible that eighty or ninety percent are manufactured by the same processor before being represented as a particular packaged brand. With few exceptions, these mass produced cheeses are somewhat bland and lifeless compared with traditionally made varieties. Considering the distinctive differences in ingredients and process, this is not particularly surprising.

Traditional cheese making

Traditional cheese makers begin with whole milk and rarely if ever use powdered or low fat substitutes. In many regions of Europe, it is standard practice to use raw, unpasteurised milk in cheese. True cheese contains a living bacterial culture and raw milk provides a superior environment for the controlled growth of selected strains. Some experts consider that the stronger cultures of unpasteurised whole milk ensure superior flavour and texture. Others prefer to compromise a little on taste to ensure the hygiene and safety advantages of pasteurised whole milk.

At present, the manufacture and sale of raw milk cheeses is prohibited in many states on account of health and agricultural quarantine regulations. Because it represents a traditional method of cheese making still practiced in many regions of the world today, the controversy surrounding the availability of raw milk cheeses is likely to continue. Consumers should be advised that it is certainly possible to obtain very high quality and flavoursome cheeses which are fashioned from pasteurised whole milk. Traditional cheeses may also depend upon the milk provided by other ruminant animals such as sheep, reindeer, buffalo, goats, and yak.

In Southern Tasmania, David Hagarty fashions a unique cheese he refers to as a “boccinoli”. Made from pasteurised goats milk, the cheese has a mild peppery taste and is perfect for use in slow baked dishes where it melts soft and elastic beneath a firm surface, similar to true mozzarella. Operating on an intimate scale, David supplies his boccinoli to several vineyards in the region. At present the cheese is only available between January and March although he anticipates extending his season over the next few years. “We’ve just bought another acre of land”, he explains. “When it’s properly fenced, we’ll buy a few more milking goats from an organic farm in Victoria”. So if you’re ever passing through the Huon Valley, ask a few of the locals about David and his boccinoli.

There’s little doubt that organic cheese production is worth pursuing, in spite of the high costs involved. Like wine, the individual qualities of cheese are largely determined by the foundations of climate and soil which uniquely characterise each area. This fact is apparently lost on the dairy conglomerates which purchase successful regional brands then rationalise them by importing cheaper milk from elsewhere.

In the interests of promoting their unique cheese varieties, local producers now frequently offer group tours and appreciation courses. When combined with a selection of red wines, there cannot be a more enjoyable approach to learning the complexities and subtleties of this fascinating food. Ordering mixed cheese platters instead of dessert is another convenient approach for those wishing to sample a variety of local and imported cheeses.