Organic wine, tradition and regional character

A carefully selected wine has the potential to complement fine food and good company. In addition to offering enjoyment and pleasure, the moderate intake of wine has the potential to improve important aspects of physical health. Since the eighties, numerous studies have confirmed the health benefits of moderate wine consumption. Dry red wine, in particular, contains high concentrations of phenolic and other antioxidant compounds which are associated with a lowered incidence of coronary vascular disease.

These findings, along with various social and economic influences, contributed to the rise of the mass produced wine. Often sold in cardboard cask or flagons, their quality was often compromised by mechanised harvesting and the routine application of chemicals during cultivation and processing.

The steady sales growth of organically produced wine appears to highlight a change in consumer taste and purchasing behaviours. While the top end of the market has always focused on limited production vintages with distinctive characteristics, the middle range has now followed with its rejection of mass-produced wines of average or lower quality. According to surveys conducted by an independent liquor traders union, the majority of consumers now prefer to spend a little extra to obtain something distinctive.

The organic approach

The organic approach encourages the grower and winemaker to obtain the best quality without relying on chemicals or technical shortcuts. In many respects, organic winemaking represents a return to the traditional approaches which once facilitated wines of great distinction.

One of the fundamental requirements for producing distinctive organic wine is the ability to match the unique characteristics of each growing region with the most suitable varieties of grape.

In general, it is easier to grow quality grapes without chemicals in warm and reasonably dry climates. These conditions offer some natural protection against the problematic moulds and other diseases which tend to infect vines growing in damp or humid climates. Further protection may be secured by choosing a physical site with optimum sunlight and air circulation.

The ideal soil is sufficiently deep with medium fertility and excellent drainage characteristics. Deep soils encourage strong root growth which enables the vines to flourish with minimal rainfall. Experienced growers ensure their vines receive only enough water to survive. Any additional watering may contribute to disease or accelerate the growth of vines. Choosing soils with medium fertility also restricts any tendency for excessive vine growth and the production of large grapes. Excessive vine growth is a waste of resources and may contribute to undesirable elevations of humidity.

The ideal situation is to concentrate all of the vines energy into the production of smaller sized grapes. Since much of a wines distinctive flavour is derived from the grape’s outer skin, smaller ones are generally preferred for their higher ratio of skin to juice. One consequence of smaller grapes is their lower yield. This effectively increases the cost of production per volume unit, accounting for some of the price difference between high quality and average wine.

The conventional approach

Most conventional wine production is now reliant on a significant number of agricultural and other chemical substances. Contrary to misinformed reports, many vines are repeatedly treated with applications of pesticide and fungicide. Weeds are routinely sprayed with herbicide to prevent them interfering with the vines. Over time, these practices will destroy microbial organisms, resulting in a progressive degradation of the soils natural ability to support healthy plant growth.

Once the soil is weakened in this manner, vines may require chemical fertilisers to keep them alive. Conventional vineyards seeking organic certification are usually subjected to a three year conversion period to ensure their practices comply with the specified standards. During this time soils are tested for natural fertility and residual pesticides. Unfortunately, many of the older types of organo-chloride pesticide have the nasty habit of breaking down so slowly that their residual components remain trapped in the soil and food chain for many years.

Sulphites

When grapes are grown naturally, in healthy soils, there is plenty of incentive to avoid unnecessary additives during the winemaking process. One class of additive which continues to generate controversy within the organic wine industry are the sulphite compounds.

Like other natural foods, stored wine can be attacked by oxygen, and bacteria. In serious cases, this will initiate unwanted oxidation and fermentation, resulting in a spoiled product. To prevent costly losses, most contemporary winemakers treat their wine and equipment with sulphite preservatives. The most widely used substance is sulphur dioxide which can be extracted as a by-product of petroleum processing. Natural sulphites can also be isolated from mined sulphur. In France fluidsouftre are permitted additives in organic wine, providing their concentrations are maintained within the (low) maximum limits.

The fact that low levels of sulphite compounds are created naturally during the fermentation process has occasionally been used to legitimise the use of sulphite additives by winemakers. There is also the argument that sulphites are added to most wines, including those of distinction, to ensure their stability over time. Whatever point of view is accepted, there is little doubt that excessive sulphites will ruin a wine with their slightly bitter taste. They can also cause headaches and respiratory problems in susceptible individuals.

As history demonstrates, it is possible to create most varieties of wine without the addition of sulphite preservatives. This largely depends on how carefully the grapes and wine are handled and stored during all phases of the winemaking process.

Terroir and organic wine making

In France, the term terroir is closely associated with the creation of distinctive wine. Terroir is sometimes translated as the sum of environmental inputs which contribute to the unique characteristics of a wine. These include the region, its climate, soil quality, and natural ecosystems, in participation with the agricultural and technical inputs which support the vines and enable the grapes to be crafted into wine.

While many of us are captivated by stereotypical images of easily gained abundance, the reality for organic growers is usually hard won gains achieved through effective planning and old-fashioned effort. By encouraging biodiversity within their vineyards, organic growers reduce the impact of many insect pests and diseases which might otherwise threaten the vines. For example, instead of spraying herbicide to control weeds, organic growers might select cover crops such as clover or rye grass. These provide habitat for the predatory or beneficial insects which limit populations of destructive ones.

Rather than fortifying weakened soils with externally sourced chemicals, organic growers develop natural methods for protecting and sustaining the structure and ecology of their vineyard soils. This involves the use of cover crops to prevent erosion and the recycling of prunings and pressed grape pulp as valuable composting ingredients.

An emphasis on natural recycling might be one of the best ways to ensure that the vineyard’s terroir is adequately reflected in the finished product. Visualise a funnel which concentrates the diverse components of a pollution free environment. Some traditional winemakers like to treat the vineyard as a closed system. This is often revealed through the choice of yeasts employed to ferment the grapes. In well established locations, a vineyard may contain sufficient concentrations of wild yeast to facilitate the process. Wild yeast populations typically require years to develop so are rarely an option for recently established vineyards.

Organic certification

There are certainly a significant number of winemakers who craft their products according to sustainable organic principles, yet choose not to advertise this fact. When organic wine was first introduced, there was resistance from traditionalists who viewed certification and labelling as a marketing gimmick. Throughout the previous decade, participants within the organic wine industry have demonstrated integrity and delivered quality products to the extent that the earlier reservations are rarely encountered.

Many winemakers consider protection of the environment and avoidance of harmful additives to be a vital component of their tradition and lifestyle. Since the ability to achieve refined quality over many years is hard won, it is not surprising that some experienced winemakers remain resistant to the externally applied standards of organic certification bodies. Occasionally there may be disagreements over the interpretation or application of some organic principle. In other examples, the vineyard or its output may be too small to justify the additional expense and paperwork associated with organic certification. As a consequence, the wine must be sold without an organic label. This limits participation and ultimately weakens the organic wine industry. For this reason there is genuine need for constructive exchange and cooperation between winemakers of integrity and the organic certification bodies. A failure to confirm organic status to technically qualified winemakers can only disadvantage the vineyard’s reputation and ultimately consumer commitment to the product.

Many individuals now depend upon organic labelling to help them differentiate safe products from those which possibly contain pesticide residue and other chemical contaminants.