Organic sake worth the effort

Locating a bottle of premium organic sake can be a difficult challenge, especially in regions where the value of this complex and historic beverage is defined in terms of its alcohol content and ability to shock the western palate. I’m far from experienced in the cultural intricacies of sake, but have gained some valuable insights through careful observation and listening. One of the most frequently repeated recommendations is to choose the best quality sake one can afford. Upon further questioning, this advice is sometimes refined by reference to the term “munouyaku” which means no agricultural chemicals.

In Japan, traditional varieties of sake rice have been selectively bred over many centuries. The best sake rice is characterised by its higher starch content which is concentrated towards the centre of the grain. The Japanese Agricultural Standards board (JAS) recognises the certification standards which ensure that selected rice harvests are grown without agricultural chemicals. Japanese food standards are exceptionally high by world standards and there is a high demand for rice of this quality.

While many brewers of sake routinely source organically certified rice, there are relatively few which maintain the stringent requirements for organic certification of foodstuff processing and manufacture. This is the second requirement for creating a sake product which can be organically certified. As Japanese and Western consumers become increasingly informed of the benefits of organic agricultural and food production techniques, there is greater incentive for brewers to undertake the challenging conversion towards organic certification.

The finest “munouyaku” and organically certified sake are noted for their subtlety and balance of complex essences. I won’t attempt to describe these flavours as they are strongly influenced by the combinations of food and savoury which are served in accompaniment. The flavour profile of premium grade sake is also highly dependent on the serving temperature. My knowledgeable friends assure me that premium grade sake is best enjoyed at room temperature or slightly chilled. Heating is sometimes encouraged to mask the faults or roughness of a less crafted product. This is even more likely to be the case for restaurant sake which is served over chilled. Kampai!