Alcohol levels for organically certified wine

There’s some perception within the wine industry that organic producers are contributing to an international trend of increased alcohol levels in traditional varietals. While less than convinced by arguments of this nature, I’m prepared to concede that a few notable organic vintages have reached towards an upper range of 16 percent and above. These are, however, balanced by the large number of examples where a modest range is maintained, somewhere between 11 and 14 percent alcohol.

The nineties were truly a decade for increasing alcohol volumes in wine. The trend was initially observed in the “higher quality” reds sourced from California and several of the imported products from Argentina, Chile, and South Africa. In the first instance, increased alcohol content is likely to have been accidental and possibly linked to variable factors like seasonal climate shifts or more efficient yeast strains. As time progressed, high alcohol volumes became something of a status point and were inexplicably esteemed by a selection of international judges and subsequently popularised.

When selecting organically certified wine, the question of alcohol content is significant. While it’s true that some wines have sufficient body and structure to carry their high alcohol content, there are too many which disappoint. We’ve all experienced the unbalanced attempts which simply burn the palate amidst a confusion of extra ripe and heavy fruit characteristics. Subtlety can be far more convincing although dedicated fans of the Californian blockbusters may disagree.

The popularity of high alcohol content seems to have peaked and may be entering a period of decline. This may have been assisted with increasing export activity and the differential tariffs imposed on products exceeding 15 percent alcohol. Some industrial winemakers are now investing in reverse osmosis technology which enables them to effectively reduce the alcohol content post fermentation. Such procedures are inconsistent with the philosophy and principles of organic production. The best approach for organic growers is to respond to the natural determinants of alcohol content in their grapes. This could involve changing the way their grapes are managed or selecting varieties which mature less rapidly in warm climates.