Organic Guide
June 7th, 2007
Why have so many chocolate lovers shifted their allegiance to organically certified products? We contacted industry representatives across the globe for their responses. Sjaaks is a family business located in Northern California specialising in the manufacture of premium quality organic chocolates. Jessica Holten is the daughter of Sjaaks founder, Jacques Holten. Having grown up with chocolate, Jessica probably has a better understanding than most. She believes many consumers have become increasingly wary of the high levels of pesticides applied to raise conventional cocoa crops. The chocolate products may then contain residual chemicals present within the cocoa butter as derived from the oily components of the bean. Jessica also agrees with our perception that dark organic chocolate is gaining in popularity. Most milk chocolates lack the depth of flavour and she points to tastes becoming increasingly refined as consumers explore the subtleties of dark chocolate. In addition, the high antioxidant levels and well reported health benefits have encouraged many individuals to switch to dark chocolate products.
From Australia, Christine Giarrusso agrees with Jessica’s take on the pesticide concerns. Definitely Chocolate offers a premium organic chocolate which is free of chemical pesticides and genetically modified ingredients. Christine also believes that dark chocolate is gaining in popularity, but not necessarily at the expense of milk or compound chocolate products. She says that many of their customers already enjoy the complex tastes of dark chocolate and that recent media coverage on its health benefits may therefore be perceived as an additional bonus.
As representative of the German chocolate company Vivani, Monika Noack reminds us that it is attention to detail which distinguishes fine organic chocolates from the rest. She points to the choice of raw organic sugars as opposed to refined and the extended conching process which enables their chocolates to be manufactured without emulsifying additives. The German chocolate manufacturers are also dedicated to sourcing their ingredients from plantations supporting the healthy diversity of species required for sustainably managed crops.
It’s all about cocoa
Until recently, it was widely assumed that chocolate provided minimal nutritional or health benefits. Well a comforting truth has been revealed. Repeated studies are now indicating that small quantities of dark chocolate may initiate some very positive health effects. The natural flavonoids present in cocoa and dark chocolate possess strong antioxidant properties which can reduce cumulative damage to blood vessels, decreasing the risk of cardiovascular disease, heart attack, and stroke. Another compound in dark chocolate is believed to relax the arterial blood vessels while inhibiting the aggregation of platelets and other cells which may otherwise create temporary blockage of the arteries.
Cocoa is native to South America where it was harvested for thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans. In its natural state, the cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao) inhabits lowland rainforest and lives beneath the canopy of taller species. The expansive biodiversity of their habitat plays an important role in the life cycle of the cacao species. For example, pollination is facilitated by numerous insects which live within the humid canopy of the rainforest. There is also an integral balance between beneficial insect predators and those which attack the foliage and roots of the cocoa tree.
Most of the world’s cocoa is currently sourced from West African plantations. When intensively raised in monocultural environments, the trees are very susceptible to a variety of fungal infections and pathogenic organisms. This can result in higher than average levels of chemical use. In poorer countries, it is not unknown for these to include stockpiles of agricultural products which are currently banned in more affluent countries for health and safety reasons.
Organic cocoa
Organically certified cocoa is grown without pesticides and other chemical treatments. One of the sustainable approaches employed by organic cocoa producers is to plant trees at lower densities beneath a canopy of shade providing species. This simulation of natural growing conditions improves local biodiversity and decreases the incidence of disease. Over the years, Manuel Costello has imported large quantities of cocoa from countries like Grenada, Brazil, and The Ivory Coast. “We used to secure the supplies with agents”, he says. “Now it’s better if we deal directly with our growers. Experienced clients always demand quality. The highest quality cocoa expresses deeply complex flavours, which distinguish the finest chocolates and drinking blends. The organic product is more expensive than standard grown beans, but successful clients accept that. They don’t question the market. That’s good business sense”.
Processing cocoa
After harvesting the beans, several additional processes are required to create the cocoa butters which can be used to manufacture the different grades of chocolate and drinking cocoa.
In their raw state, cocoa beans are fairly dry and bitter. To release additional flavours, the beans must be shelled then roasted. After roasting, they are ground into a creamy pulp which is fermented to reduce bitterness and increase the chocolate flavours. Fermentation is encouraged by repeatedly agitating the pulp over several hours. Extended agitation periods (up to several days) are applied to produce the smoother blends of Swiss and Belgian chocolate. The cocoa butter is usually treated with several alkalinising substances to remove impurities. At this stage it can be sieved to separate some of the solids which are dried to create a cocoa powder. The remaining cocoa butter can be blended with sugar, milk solids, additional oils, and emulsifier to create chocolate.
There are many recipes and techniques which are used for manufacturing chocolate. The quality of the finished product will depend entirely upon the integrity of the raw ingredients and the manufacturing processes involved. Organically certified dark chocolates generally contain at least thirty percent cocoa butter. This ensures the flavour complexity often described as bittersweet. Milk chocolate is typically smoother and sweeter with around twenty percent cocoa butter.
Functional properties
One of the recent trends observed in chocolate and confectionery manufacturing is the move towards creating products with functional health benefits. This is closely linked to research which has identified the therapeutic effects of the flavonol compounds within dark chocolate.
There is a move to increase the quantity of beneficial flavonols while controlling levels of saturated fat and sweeteners. This necessitates that cocoa beans should be carefully handled and processed to ensure preservation of their natural properties. Over the next few years consumers should be able to purchase heart smart chocolate made with pure, organically certified ingredients.
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Have you ever experienced difficulty obtaining organically certified hen’s eggs? From the farmer’s perspective, Jesse Laflamme concedes that filling demand throughout the year can be challenging. Based in New Hampshire, he works alongside his father Gerry to produce Pete and Gerry’s Organic Eggs. Jesse points out that each egg brought to market must be planned for at least eight months in advance. With the high cost of organic grain to factor, there’s little margin for error. He knows of organic egg farmers who miscalculated their growth potential and ended up with surplus eggs which could not be sold to recoup costs. While subject to a cyclical demand, organic egg farms like Pete and Gerry’s continue to provide consumers with premium product choices and a clear alternative to the questionable practices of conventional egg producers.
During the eighties, an emphasis on reducing daily cholesterol intake caused egg consumption to decrease in most urban regions. The relationship between dietary cholesterol and blood cholesterol has now been re-evaluated with the conclusion that genetic and lifestyle factors assume a greater influence along with the intake of saturated fats. As a consequence more nutritionists are recommending eggs as an important source of protein, vitamins, and minerals.
Since the negative eighties, there have been many studies focusing on the positive health benefits of moderate egg consumption. These include the provision of nutrients like choline and biotin which support nervous system functioning and may be protective against Alzheimer’s disease and age related cognitive decline.
Overwhelmed with choice
Before purchasing a carton of commercially produced hen eggs, the modern consumer must negotiate a confusing array of descriptions and labels, many of them designed to conceal the true nature of their production. There are barn eggs, cage eggs, free-range eggs, Omega 3 eggs, vegetarian eggs, and organically certified eggs. Most of them are available in a range of sizes such as medium, large, extra large and jumbo eggs.
Descriptions like omega 3 and vegetarian are used to emphasise some aspect of the hen’s diet. In the case of omega 3 the diet is usually supplemented with flaxseed meal or oil while vegetarian eggs suggest that no rendered or animal proteins are included. Dietary descriptions like these do not provide the consumer with additional information regarding the type of housing, and in some cases the hens will be caged. Barn laid is a confusing description which suggests the hens are uncaged. In all likelihood, the birds will be cramped inside sheds with no access to outdoor runs. Free-range eggs are laid by hens with the freedom to forage outdoors. While the ability to forage outdoors is highly desirable, these hens are usually provided with a supplementary diet of non-organic chicken pellets. This exposes them to a potential range of pesticide and agricultural chemical contaminants.
Certified organic eggs
Organic standards for egg production specify the types of feed, accommodation, and living conditions which are suitable for laying hens. While healthy hens require shelter for security and protection against the elements, they also benefit from the freedom to scratch and forage naturally outdoors. A clean, pollution free range provides a suitably varied natural diet, one that is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and trace elements.
To prevent the accumulation of pesticide and other agricultural chemicals, any supplementary feeds must be obtained from organically certified growers. Flock sizes are usually contained to one thousand birds or fewer, although the notion of this arbitrary limit has stirred controversy between various competing certification authorities.
In order to pass their inspections, organic egg producers must demonstrate commitment to the welfare and wellbeing of their hens. This includes the provision for humane culling of birds affected by parasites, skin and moulting disorders, or beak problems which disrupt normal feeding.
The consequence of a superior diet and lifestyle for these hens is most evident in the texture, taste, and colour of the eggs. To start with, the shell should be consistently thick, smooth, and bright in appearance. Once opened, the raw yolks glisten with a rich, warm colour, while the whites appear firm and clear. Eggs of this quality are welcome in most kitchens, they effectively bind raw ingredients and provide the superior body and support essential for traditionally baked soufflé, omelette, cakes, muffins, and meringue.
Battery hen eggs
In stark contrast to hens raised according to organic standards, battery hens are imprisoned in cramped wire cages stacked row upon row inside overheated hangars. These hangars routinely accommodate several thousand birds at any given time. Stressed and crowded birds peck at each other. To limit the capacity for hens to attach each other, hot wire guillotines are used to remove a third of each hen’s beak. During this “de-beaking” process, a number of hens die of shock.
The productivity of battery hens is regulated by a regime of twenty four hour lighting and carefully measured quantities of protein rich feed, which is sometimes supplemented with antibiotics, colouring agents, and synthetic hormones. The existence of these birds can only be imagined as an extreme vision of cruelty and suffering.
A direct consequence of maintaining large numbers of birds in such unnatural conditions is the increased levels of stress, illness, and disease. Salmonella is a dangerous pathogen, one which is frequently responsible for outbreaks of food poisoning. It was originally a concern restricted to chicken meats, but now includes caged eggs. In the worst-case scenario, salmonella pathogens have a capacity to infect the ovaries of laying hens. In response to numerous incidents of food poisoning, the handling regulations for eggs have been improved to include mandatory items such as refrigerated transportation. While this has reduced some of the risk, it misses the original source of the problem.
At present, some egg producers are able to continue their operations despite evidence of salmonella infection within their flocks. Instead of supplying their fresh eggs to discount supermarkets and chain stores, there are opportunities to enter the growing market for low-grade bulk eggs. These are processed within industrial size vats which shell, filter, and pasteurise as many as fifty thousand eggs each hour. Packaged into standard volumes, the treated eggs are widely used in catering kitchens and for industrial manufacturing of cakes, biscuits, frozen foods, mayonnaise, and protein supplements.
Sourcing quality eggs
Organically certified eggs can be ordered through most whole food suppliers, fresh food distributors, and health food stores. They are often stacked alongside the cage eggs in supermarkets and convenience stores. This is a practice which should be discouraged since there is always the potential for these products to become mixed together.
Consumers should remember that eggshells are porous and will not necessarily protect eggs from harmful bacteria.
Farmers markets have become very popular and there are usually plenty of good quality eggs available. Not all of them will be organically certified, but it is usually possible to get some idea about their quality by speaking with vendors. Fresh eggs purchased from markets are likely to be randomly sized and speckled with dirt and manure, which is often a shock to those familiar with commercially produced eggs since these are generally washed and graded prior to packing.
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